“This comes from a parcel of old vines in Les Bessards, a steep, terraced section of the Hermitage hill. The concentration of the fruit reads in its intense red-cherry flavors, but it’s the structure that sets the wine apart: Taut acidity and firm, licorice-scented tannins seem to hold the fruit in suspension, where it telegraphs its freshness in a pure, fresh beam of flavor. While there’s a hint of vanilla-toned new oak from its year in barrels, there’s nothing aggressive or showy about this wine; it simply feels steadfast and healthy, ready to age for another decade.”

“Delas Frères owns 24 acres on the Hermitage hill, including some small parcels of marsanne planted in 1912 and 1918. Since 2013, Jacques Grange has been converting the farming here and in the domaine’s other vineyards to organic, a move he says he’s found to increase the energy in the wines. The performance of the wines we tasted for this issue gives credence to his impression, with this wine a standout example. The vintage was a difficult one, replete with heat waves, hail storms and drought, and yet the wine feels radiant. Fermented with ambient yeasts, it opens gradually, the initial wood tones fading as the wine grows golden and opulent in flavor. Honeysuckle scents and lemony acidity play around the juicy Cavaillon melon flavors, adding delicacy to the wine, while bitter-almond and mineral notes add a deep savor. It’s glorious now, but deserving of another decade in the cellar to harmonize.”

“Toast, pressed rose, dark spice and wild berry aromas form the nose. Polished and structured, the elegant palate delivers raspberry compote, sour cherry, licorice and a hint of tobacco framed in taut fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2029.”

“The 2016 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is every bit as regal as it has always been. Towering and spectacularly rich in the glass, the 2016 captures every ounce of potential is showed from barrel. The 2016 is a vivid, dramatically sweeping wine that will leave readers week at the knees. Beams of tannin give the 2016 soaring intensity that is matched by a host of aromas and flavors that open up in the glass. Blackberry jam, graphite, spice, menthol, licorice, pencil shavings and spice are all finely sketched in a bold, savory Pauillac that hits all the right notes. The 2016 Pichon Comtesse has been riveting on each of the four occasions I have tasted it from barrel thus far, making it easily one of the wines of the vintage. Nicolas Glumineu and his team turned out an epic Pichon Comtesse in 2016. Don't miss it!”

“The 2016 Bourgneuf is savory and lifted in its expression. Medium in body, gracious and light on its feet, the 2016 has a lot to offer. Grilled herbs, rose petal, mint and sweet red berry fruit are laced together in this super-expressive Pomerol.”