A well-cut white, with touches of mountain herbs lending a savory edge to flavors of crunchy white peach, pineapple, blanched almond and graphite. Finely balanced and elegant, with a lasting, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2032.

Marqués de Murrieta’s venture in Rías Baixas was overhauled in 2019 to focus on ageworthy whites. The flagship Pazo Barrantes, which is now aged in tanks and 15% acacia barrels, spends an additional two years in bottle before release. Although prices have risen, the wine has gained depth and complexity, displaying generous white and citrus fruits, fine fennel notes, and consistent juiciness and length.

It’s not often you’ll find a Rias Baixas Albariño that tips over the £100 mark, so this is punchy but boy, is it good. Full-bodied yet vibrant with bright acidity, it's packed with notes of tangerine peel, lemon citrus and tinned peaches, balanced by a moreish, white chocolate and liquorice waxiness on palate from large barrel oak fermentation and extended lees ageing.

The 2022 Albariño Gran Vino aged for four months on lees, followed by eight months in stainless steel, with 15% aged in acacia barrels. It opens with fine notes of linden blossom and anise, alongside pear, biscuit and a balsamic hint of eucalyptus, plus a touch of apricot. This is creamy and flavorful, with a supple texture and a fresh lift. It is ready to drink now. The 2022 is an interesting style that emphasizes aging character over primary fruit.

The 2022 Gran Vino Albariño was cropped from a warm and dry year is the third vintage of this new cuvée from their 12 hectares in eight different plots (Cacheiro, Huerta, Besada, Eira, Ferradiña, Ferradura, Tomadiña and Souto) in the Valle del Salnés plus a further hectare rented from the archbishop. The destemmed grapes were pressed and the must left to settle and then fermented in stainless steel for around 43 days. The wine was kept with the lees in stainless steel for four months and then a further eight months without the lees. Fifteen percent of the volume matured in acacia wood barrels. It was kept in bottle for two years before being sold. It comes in at the usual 13.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.35 and 7.15 grams of acidity (tartaric). They consider 2022 an excellent vintage, with very healthy grapes. The wine is very pale and clean and seems to close in the glass. It has a textbook nose of aged Albariño, exuberant and ripe without excess, with perfect development of aromas and flavors, with yellow fruit, flowers and a balsamic touch reminiscent of moss. It has a round and juicy palate, but it's still a little austere, with very good freshness and balance and a salty twist in the finish. With time, it develops more complexity, even notes of licorice. It's still young and undeveloped, especially when tasted next to the 2020 La Comtesse, but it's serious and balanced. A total of 127,820 numbered bottles and 1,956 magnums were produced. It was bottled in July 2023.