Exceptional, with one of the most distinctive aromatic profiles for an albarino. Herbal on the nose, showing green ginger, limes and passion fruit. The medium- to full-bodied palate is balanced with subtle ripeness and mind-blowing precision and harmony. From a vineyard planted in 1965 on sandy soils. Fermented and aged in 3,000-liter French oak vats, with 18 months in concrete tanks. Drink or hold. Only 9,972 bottles produced.

The 2020 La Comtesse was produced with the Albariño grapes from a 1.4-hectare plot called Cacheiro, where they have their oldest vines (from 1965) that deliver lower yields. This has a slightly darker color, denoting its age. The juice from the pressing of the destemmed grapes fermented for 60 days in 3,000-liter oak vats, where the wine matured for 12 months, the first three with the lees, and then it was kept in concrete for a further 18 months, which is more time in concrete than in previous years. The wine is complex and subtle, very elegant, with notes of aged Albariño, mixing citrus fruit with notes of bay leaf and hay but no trace of oak. It's powerful, long and balanced, with the classical salty twist in the finish. It's silky, elegant and serious, still undeveloped but with more complexity and depth than its younger sibling from 2022 that I tasted next to it. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol, with a pH of 3.08 and 7.7 grams of acidity. 9,972 bottles and 723 magnums produced. It was bottled in June 2023. It will not be released until the end of 2025 or early 2026.

The 2022 Gran Vino Albariño was cropped from a warm and dry year is the third vintage of this new cuvée from their 12 hectares in eight different plots (Cacheiro, Huerta, Besada, Eira, Ferradiña, Ferradura, Tomadiña and Souto) in the Valle del Salnés plus a further hectare rented from the archbishop. The destemmed grapes were pressed and the must left to settle and then fermented in stainless steel for around 43 days. The wine was kept with the lees in stainless steel for four months and then a further eight months without the lees. Fifteen percent of the volume matured in acacia wood barrels. It was kept in bottle for two years before being sold. It comes in at the usual 13.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.35 and 7.15 grams of acidity (tartaric). They consider 2022 an excellent vintage, with very healthy grapes. The wine is very pale and clean and seems to close in the glass. It has a textbook nose of aged Albariño, exuberant and ripe without excess, with perfect development of aromas and flavors, with yellow fruit, flowers and a balsamic touch reminiscent of moss. It has a round and juicy palate, but it's still a little austere, with very good freshness and balance and a salty twist in the finish. With time, it develops more complexity, even notes of licorice. It's still young and undeveloped, especially when tasted next to the 2020 La Comtesse, but it's serious and balanced. A total of 127,820 numbered bottles and 1,956 magnums were produced. It was bottled in July 2023.

The 2022 vintage of Albariño from Pazo Barrantes is a lovely wine. As I mentioned in my note last year on the 2021 version, the wine is given nine months aging on its fine lees, with a small percentage of the cuvée aged in acacia barrels, rather than stainless steel tanks. The 2022 version offers up a bright and complex bouquet of lemon, tart pear, salty soil tones, wild fennel, citrus peel and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent soil signature and grip, fine balance and a long, precise finish. Good juice. 2025-2035.

The 2020 Gran Vino Pazo Barrantes is 100% Albariño from Ribadumia, Valle del Salnés, Rías Baixas. More mature in aroma than other vintages, the 2020 showcases soft oak, acacia and gentle peach notes. Broad, creamy and fresh, it delivers richness balanced by delicate vibrancy. This is the product of a warmer vintage that highlights contrasts.