The 2021 Barolo Mosconi is another superb wine from Pio Cesare. Dark red fruit, iron, white pepper, incense, tobacco, licorice, dried herbs and rose petal all hit the palate. This brawny Barolo captures all the structural intensity of Mosconi so well. The more classic style Pio Cesare favors these days goes a long way in balancing much of that intense, unbridled power.

The 2021 Barolo Ornato hits the palate with copious dark-toned fruit, gravel, incense, new leather, licorice, graphite and scorched earth. This potent Serralunga Barolo is quite backward, but all the elements are very nicely balanced just the same. It's classic Serralunga all the way.

The 2021 Barbaresco Il Bricco caresses the palate with crushed raspberry, cinnamon, rose petal, cedar, sweet spice and pipe tobacco. Sensual at first, the 2021 is deceptive, as it packs a pretty substantial punch of acidity, tannin and overall structure. I find it absolutely beguiling and wonderfully complex right out of the gate.

Bright and precise, this red exudes cherry, strawberry, floral, wild herb and mineral flavors. Tightens up, yet the energy and thrust of fruit extend on the lengthy aftertaste. Shows fine harmony and expression. Best from 2028 through 2045.

A beam of cherry courses through this red, accented with plum, mulberry, earth and tobacco flavors. Thick with tannins and also lively and persistent, echoing the fruit, earth and tobacco accents on the finish. Patience is required. Best from 2029 through 2050.