Some wines ask for patience and this is one of them. Mosconi opens slowly and deliberately, warmed split cherries simmering with clove, anise and pink peppercorn, drying roses and dusty earth arriving with quiet, elegant authority. The palate follows with roasted red plums and a touch of strawberry jam, juicy yet taut, the tannins so smooth and easy the wine is gone almost before you realize it. A beautiful result from a difficult year. Drink now to 2045.

The 2022 Barolo Pio pours a medium ruby hue and has a beautiful perfume of cherry cordial, spice, and incense. This flagship bottling blends fruit from nine vineyards, with significant portions coming from Serralunga and Monforte d’Alba, along with parcels in Novello, La Morra, and Grinzane Cavour. Medium-bodied, it expands across the palate with surprising levity, ripe tannins, refreshing acidity, and very good length. Drink 2026-2038.

One of the best Barolos that Pio has ever made. A perfumed wine, slightly but pleasantly old-fashioned and full of personality. Open, generous aromas of mint, flowers, wild strawberries and pomegranate join vibrant violets and bergamot. Full-bodied and very juicy with firm, grainy tannins, well integrated and polished. Delicious licorice flavor, a bit chocolaty, with persistent acidity and a savory umami finish. Impressive and classic. Drink or hold.

The 2021 Barolo Mosconi is another superb wine from Pio Cesare. Dark red fruit, iron, white pepper, incense, tobacco, licorice, dried herbs and rose petal all hit the palate. This brawny Barolo captures all the structural intensity of Mosconi so well. The more classic style Pio Cesare favors these days goes a long way in balancing much of that intense, unbridled power.

The 2021 Barolo Ornato hits the palate with copious dark-toned fruit, gravel, incense, new leather, licorice, graphite and scorched earth. This potent Serralunga Barolo is quite backward, but all the elements are very nicely balanced just the same. It's classic Serralunga all the way.