“The 2020 Gran Vino Albariño, the second vintage after the transformation, is a representation of their property, the eight pagos, or vineyards, they have in their 12 hectares of vineyards plus one hectare they rent. The grapes were destemmed and the must let to settle to ferment in stainless steel for 60 days, followed by two months with lees and seven months after being racked off the lees, then a small percentage was put in acacia wood barrels for a short time to search for more complexity, structure and depth. They found that acacia is a wood in harmony with Albariño, even when newer. The bottles were kept for a further 20 months before being released. It has 13.5% alcohol, a low pH (3.26) and notable acidity (7.2 grams of tartaric acid per liter of wine), and it has finesse and elegance. It's sharp, with great aromatic intensity, less explosive and balsamic than the previous year, a remarkable mid-palate and a long, clean and precise finish. 78,533 bottles and 1,596 magnums were produced. It was bottled in June 2021.”

“The 2018 La Comtesse comes from a vineyard called Cacheiro, 1.4 hectares of their oldest vines (planted in 1965) that deliver lower yields and aim to showcase the aging potential of Albariño. The destemmed grapes were slowly and softly pressed in a pneumatic press, and the juice was let to settle and put to ferment in a 3,000-liter oak vat for some 60 days. The wine was kept in that vat for 12 months, the first two with lees, and then it matured in concrete for a further 12 months before bottling. It has 13.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.4 with seven grams of tartaric acid per liter, very good parameters for a great vintage. It has a bright golden color and a perfumed, complex and elegant nose, with depth and nuance with the complexity of time, moving away from the primary aromas and high acidity of the younger wines. The oak is neatly integrated (the oak is used, and they have reduced the time in oak by two months), and the wine has mellow acidity. It's velvety and elegant, clean, pungent and precise, sharp and electric, very fresh. It has complexity and youth, balance and ingredients to develop in bottle. Time is on its side. 6,672 bottles and 200 magnums were produced. It was bottled in April 2021. It was not released until June 2023, after a good couple of years in bottle.”

“A graceful white, light-bodied and lithe, with pretty notes of elderflower and ginger accenting a finely meshed range of white peach and melon fruit and a minerally underpinning of smoke, saline and graphite. Lightly tangy and fresh on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2025.”

“Smoky oak, quince and citrus make an appealing combination on the nose. Youthful palate despite its years, showing lemon curd, patisserie and rich fruit conserve. Finishes long, with structure that will allow further ageing.”

“The lovely Pazo Barrantes estate has been the home of the Creixell family since the 15th century. (They also own the Castillo Ygay estate in Rioja, with its Marqués de Murrieta wines.) Its 12ha of vineyards were replanted in 1982, and the winery opened in 1991. This wine spends two months on lees; 85% is then aged in stainless steel for seven months and 15% in 225L acacia wood barrels. It spends 16 months in bottle before release. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Opulent and perfumed with golden fruit. The palate is bold and intense with ripe fruit subdued by the oak, giving richness. A complex and individual wine. Pierre Mansour: Delightful blossom fruit and floral notes on the nose. Very elegant, with incredible length and real finesse. Beth Willard: Delicate honey and floral aromas. The palate is perfectly rounded by the oak, which lends a gentle sweetness and spice. Peach and apricot on the finish with a touch of mango.”