The nose is savory, umami and herbaceous, almost to the point of smokiness, while the plate adds fresh, tart lemons and sweet stone fruit to keep more nutty, umami notes and earth herbs in balance. The finish is so savory and dense you almost want to bite this wine.

The nose opens with floral, saline aromas of peonies and violets, then turns savory with hot tar and herbs, then finishes sweet with citrus and cherries. Cherries and berries headline the palate, alongside a strong blood orange element and soil strewn with crushed flower petals and herbs. Tannins are very firm.

This was the first time I’ve tasted the 2020 Turpino cuvée from Maremma. (The first vintage was 2010.) A blend of Syrah and Cabernet Franc, with a small amount of Merlot from a vineyard four kilometers from the ocean, in the glass it pours a deep purple/magenta color and leads with layered sappy herbs followed by notes of crushed rosemary, lavender oil, blackberries, dark chocolate, and plum. Full-bodied, it saturates the palate with ripe, chalky tannins, even acidity, and a lovely, savory, ripe feel through the finish. It has the most depth and richness of these 2020s but also has fantastic savory notes of scrubby herbs throughout. It’s only going to improve over the next several years. Drink 2027-2050.

Pouring a youthful jeweled ruby color, the 2022 Chianti Classico is entirely Sangiovese from Greve, Lamole, and Radda. (The producers have stopped using fruit from Gaiole in the blend, as they are concentrated on vines closer to home, including the higher elevation site in Lamole for freshness.) The nose is very pretty and fruity, with aromas of mixed berries, crushed flowers, and sweet earth. Medium to full-bodied, it’s elegant on the palate, with a fresh feel, fine tannins, and a refined texture. It is elegant all the way through and is going to offer a lot of pleasure over the next 10-12 years.

The 2021 Camartina (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese) is a potent, tightly wound offering from Querciabella. Blue-toned fruit, graphite, dried cherry, mocha and new leather all take shape gradually. The 2021 is a touch compact today, but I see that as a positive for its long-term prospects. Readers will have to be patient with this classy, polished wine.