The 2021 Camartina (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese) is a potent, tightly wound offering from Querciabella. Blue-toned fruit, graphite, dried cherry, mocha and new leather all take shape gradually. The 2021 is a touch compact today, but I see that as a positive for its long-term prospects. Readers will have to be patient with this classy, polished wine.

The 2022 Chianti Classico is a polished, sophisticated wine. Dark red cherry, plum, blood orange, spice, cedar and new leather are front and center. Medium in body and layered, with terrific depth for the year, the 2022 is a delight.

On a par with the 2016 for outright quality, this modern Camartina is a very different style, which shows just how the wine has come in the last five years. Some frost damage in April lowered yields, but rainfall in May set the vines up for the hot, dry summer, althought fortunately there were no extreme heat spikes as experienced in 2020. The vines were refreshed by rain in the autumn, prolonging the growing season. Aromatic and lifted, this charms with its violet and hedgerow berry fragrance. It's full of energy, tightly coiled and beautifully balanced, with a menthol-fresh attack which gives way to precise pomegranate, strawberry and blackberry overlaying wood. Great poise – and tremendous potential.

Stylish and seductive, Querciabella’s 2022 leads with rooibos, mace and mocha atop dark red cherry. The palate is polished with sophisticated sweet oak spice tucked into the ripe and generous fruit core. Suede-like tannins expand, weaving smoothly throughout, while Sangiovese's brilliant acidity makes this sparkle. Splendid completeness and energy. Within the last year, there has been a significant change at this renowned estate as animal rights activist and organic champion Sebastiano Castiglioni ceded ownership to his sister, Mita. Long-time winemaker Manfred Ing remains at the helm of production.

Mid yellowish straw. Waxy and herbal on the nose with good structure and rich palate entry but with density counterbalanced by suitable acidity. A hint of lime on the end. Broad-beamed and long but I'd love to see this with a little more bottle age and development. I have based my suggested drinking dates on the results of this tasting. This is a white to accompany all sorts of savoury dishes – with creamy sauces perhaps.