This was the first time I’ve tasted the 2020 Turpino cuvée from Maremma. (The first vintage was 2010.) A blend of Syrah and Cabernet Franc, with a small amount of Merlot from a vineyard four kilometers from the ocean, in the glass it pours a deep purple/magenta color and leads with layered sappy herbs followed by notes of crushed rosemary, lavender oil, blackberries, dark chocolate, and plum. Full-bodied, it saturates the palate with ripe, chalky tannins, even acidity, and a lovely, savory, ripe feel through the finish. It has the most depth and richness of these 2020s but also has fantastic savory notes of scrubby herbs throughout. It’s only going to improve over the next several years. Drink 2027-2050.

Pouring a youthful jeweled ruby color, the 2022 Chianti Classico is entirely Sangiovese from Greve, Lamole, and Radda. (The producers have stopped using fruit from Gaiole in the blend, as they are concentrated on vines closer to home, including the higher elevation site in Lamole for freshness.) The nose is very pretty and fruity, with aromas of mixed berries, crushed flowers, and sweet earth. Medium to full-bodied, it’s elegant on the palate, with a fresh feel, fine tannins, and a refined texture. It is elegant all the way through and is going to offer a lot of pleasure over the next 10-12 years.

The 2021 Camartina (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese) is a potent, tightly wound offering from Querciabella. Blue-toned fruit, graphite, dried cherry, mocha and new leather all take shape gradually. The 2021 is a touch compact today, but I see that as a positive for its long-term prospects. Readers will have to be patient with this classy, polished wine.

The 2022 Chianti Classico is a polished, sophisticated wine. Dark red cherry, plum, blood orange, spice, cedar and new leather are front and center. Medium in body and layered, with terrific depth for the year, the 2022 is a delight.

On a par with the 2016 for outright quality, this modern Camartina is a very different style, which shows just how the wine has come in the last five years. Some frost damage in April lowered yields, but rainfall in May set the vines up for the hot, dry summer, althought fortunately there were no extreme heat spikes as experienced in 2020. The vines were refreshed by rain in the autumn, prolonging the growing season. Aromatic and lifted, this charms with its violet and hedgerow berry fragrance. It's full of energy, tightly coiled and beautifully balanced, with a menthol-fresh attack which gives way to precise pomegranate, strawberry and blackberry overlaying wood. Great poise – and tremendous potential.