One of the pleasant surprises in the Delas range, the 2023 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos is crafted from the lieu-dit Saint-Georges, on the final terraces before the Rhône, encompassing some six hectares enclosed by walls. It opens with a slightly reductive bouquet that gives way to aromas of cassis, nectarine and blackberry. Medium- to full-bodied, juicy and deep, it offers excellent structure and substance, built around a long, sustained mid-palate framed by finely chiseled, elegant tannins. This is a real success.

Deliciously pure and bright, with a taut, racy beam of damson plum and bitter cherry notes stitched with rose petal and iris details. Shows a twinge of sea breeze through the finish. Drink now through 2033. 1,750 cases made.

Packed with cherry, mulberry and boysenberry paste flavors that show a sappy edge, while roasted apple wood and licorice snap notes coat the finish. Brambly energy skirts underneath, keeping this honest enough. A frankly gutsy style. Best from 2027 through 2032.

This is bright, showing violet and hibiscus notes out front, while slightly high-pitched accents of cherry and pomegranate coulis race along. Opens steadily in the glass, with a finishing kick of fruit on the finish. Drink now through 2031. 

Easily rivaling the excellent 2021—might it be even better?—Dominus's 2023 Napanook originates largely from the middle portion of the vineyard as a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Qualitatively and stylistically, it sits nicely between the lighter, crisper Othello and the vin de garde produced from the more gravelly section of the vineyard at the back, closest to the Mayacamas. Cherries and dusty loam are joined by hints of vanilla on the nose, while the medium- to full-bodied palate is lush, with a seductive swell of fruit and tannins that flows seamlessly into a long finish tinged with black olives and black tea, framed by soft tannins.