It’s a joy to taste and drink this Rias Baixas, which shows ripe pineapple, quince, cream, meringue, apricots, seashells and minerals. Substantially full but paradoxically light as well, thanks to its bright acidity. Long, creamy and taut, with a lightly saline ending. A vinous albarino to drink or hold.

Flinty gun smoke blows off to reveal delicate notes of peach and lime blossoms, with a briny, savory character. Subtle leesy, toasty hints detail the suave palate, making this more savory than fruit-driven. Elegant, with nice length. Sémillon and Rolle. Drink now through 2028.

“The 2014 Cristal Rosé is a stunning, age-worthy bottling that really needs 30 plus minutes of air prior to consuming. For my palate this eclipses the incredible ’99 and ’02 bottlings — and is absolutely amongst the finest Cristal Rosé wines ever produced. A short decant in a narrow decanter also does wonders to arouse the aromatics. Given 7G/L dosage, this was disgorged more than two years ago in June 2022. Sourced from the villages of Aÿ, Avize, and Mesnil-sur-Oger, nearly 20% of the base wines were stored in oak prior to disgorgement. This is big and burly with a refined effervescence. Delicate strawberry and red raspberry alongside chalky soils and nuances of kumquat zest with candied ginger all mark the palate. The length and elegance of the wine really shines as this is already drinking beautifully. Drink 2024-2044”

The texture is impressive, with its subtle chewiness supporting blackberry pâte de fruit, violet and light mesquite notes. Elements of loam and earthy leafiness bring a savory dimension alongside floral violet and smoke highlights. Charred mesquite marks the elegant and suave finish. Well-done. Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2032.

Remarkably cherryish – an unusual aromatic marker in this vintage. The palate is really quite tight, taut, with marked acidity, herbal aromatics and textural grip. The freshness and intensity are palpable. This has great clarity, brightness and serious energy. Very grippy, and the acidity is sharp. No oak is used during maturation. HVE-certified in the vineyard.