This Barolo from the Ornato vineyard offers enticing aromas of ripe black cherry, cinnamon-spiced cake, candied blood orange zest, and a hint of fresh bay leaf. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced, with a precise, linear structure that showcases flavors of juicy blackberry, dark chocolate, and a touch of vanilla. The wine's impressive length and depth are evident in the long, satisfying finish. Drink 2026-2044.

The premier sparkling wine producer in California has just recently released this, their very first vineyard designated offering. As you might expect, it is a winner on all fronts, and it is a slight departure from the usual house style that has brought the label to such prominence. The hallmarks are here of course – a fine, creamy mousse, with beautiful perlage in the glass, bold aromas and flavors – but the stylistic difference comes from the dosage level. This is noticeably drier than the regular non-vintage or vintage L’Ermitage offerings, and it is a welcome addition to the portfolio. It renders the regional apple character found in the other wines in a more austere fashion, allowing more palate real estate to subtle cherry fruit, stony mineral and toasted croissant notes. I suspect that winemaker Arnaud Weyrich, the driver behind the estate’s success, has wanted to offer a “grower” sort of wine for a while, but also wanted to wait for the perfect opportunity.

“The nose is nostalgic and lightly sweet, with aromas of vanilla, cloves, cardamom and cherry, along with faint undertones of dried tomatoes and balsamic. On the palate, the cherries star, while fighting back ferocious tannins and piercing acid.”

The nose starts floral, with aromas of roses, vanilla and cherry, then turns earthy, before spiced undertones of cloves and bergamot float to the surface. The cherries return on the palate, with more bitter citrus and earth tones, while finely grained tannins tickle the back of your tongue.

The nose is warm yet refreshing, like a summer morning that's not too hot yet, with aromas of lemon curd, orange, grass and hazelnuts, along with just a touch of biting pineapple. The nuttiness is more prominent on the palate, but more citrus and rivers of acid maintain a fresh, cooling feeling.