“The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Millecento is dark and animalistic with musky black currants, mocha, rosemary and underbrush lifted by a hint of camphor. This is decidedly salty and mineral in character, offsetting its silky textures with tart wild berries tinged with sour citrus, as grippy tannins mount toward the close. Balsam herbs, cocoa and hints of licorice linger incredibly long over a coating of fine-grained tannins through the heroically structured finale. There’s already so much going on here, but with cellaring, I expect even more.”

“Blueberries and cherries with hints of cedar and spice, as well as plenty of mixed dried flowers, including violets. Some graphite and stone, too. Medium-to full-bodied with racy tannins and a long, long finish. It’s linear and complete, with lovely elegance and structure. Try after 2024.

“Subtle cherry, orange-peel and floral notes on the nose. Medium body, firm tannins and a long, fresh finish. Shows intensity and structure with length. Linear and fresh. Minerally. Try after 2023.”

“A rich, round version, offering earth and sanguine flavors, with notes of cherry and plum. On the soft side, getting its lift from dusty tannins. Merlot and Sangiovese. Drink now through 2025.”

“Currant and blackberry character with hints of spices on the nose. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a bright, vivid finish. Delicious now, but even better in 2023.”