The 2018 Cristal opens a new chapter for Roederer. The Cristal estate is composed of 45 parcels. In better vintages, most of the 45 parcels are used for the blend. The 2018 vintage brought with it elevated ripeness and generally low acids. Longtime Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon was forced to cast his gaze wider, to look for parcels that offered a touch of freshness. Lécaillon expanded his palette to 57 parcels. The result is a Cristal unlike any other I have tasted. Orchard fruit, dried flowers, spice, chalk and herbs. 

Lovely hint of mineral reduction on the nose which shows bright pear and cherry fruit with a hint of spice on the nose. The palate is expansive with layered pear and citrus fruit, a hint of mandarin, and some fine spicy detail. It’s rich but nicely balanced with lots of texture and generosity, and not too much acidity, giving nice breadth on the palate. Lovely stuff.

This shows aromas of mushroom, sandalwood, cedar and a subtle touch of ash. Medium- to full-bodied, it combines concentration and depth with polished tannins and an expressive core of fruit. It is expressive and broad. This is approachable now, but will benefit from extra time in the bottle. Drink or hold.

This shows a concentrated nose of plums, subtle game and hints of rust and dried flowers. On the palate it’s medium- to full-bodied, with evenly distributed flesh and a voluminous structure, yet it remains well balanced, supported by polished, silky tannins. The finish is long and concentrated, and while it can be enjoyed now, it has the structure to benefit from further aging. It should be decanted in advance. Drink or hold.

This is expressive, with aromas of dried flowers, eucalyptus and hints of smoke and violets. Medium- to full-bodied, it shows balance and completeness, with all elements in harmony. There is depth of fruit, length, and a seamless structure. The finish is elegant and ethereal, supported by concentration and precise, finely polished tannins. 81% tempranillo and 19% mazuelo. Already approachable, but it will continue to age gracefully. Drink or hold.