This is a classic Pouilly-Fumé. Gala apple and late-summer field grass fronds tussle in front of an audience of lilac and orange blossom on the nose. A mix of orchard fruit and dried lemon peel fills the palate that is fruity without being indulgent.

This is a well-put-together Sancerre. Golden apple and toasted lemon peel aromas open on the nose that sees a touch of hay and freshly-cut grass. The mouthwatering palate wraps around a core of shattered stone and citrus with a hint of dried mint leaf on the finish.

“The 2014 Cristal Rosé is fascinating to taste next to the 2015 and a few older vintages, as it is decidedly linear and taut, signatures that are typical of the year. Cranberry, chalk, mint, white pepper and blood orange are all finely sculpted. This is an especially fine showing. I imagine the 2014 will flesh out beautifully with time in bottle. It's not an immediate Cristal Rosé, but more of a long distance runner. Readers should be in no rush here. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 2024.”

Bright and precise, this red exudes cherry, strawberry, floral, wild herb and mineral flavors. Tightens up, yet the energy and thrust of fruit extend on the lengthy aftertaste. Shows fine harmony and expression. Best from 2028 through 2045.

A beam of cherry courses through this red, accented with plum, mulberry, earth and tobacco flavors. Thick with tannins and also lively and persistent, echoing the fruit, earth and tobacco accents on the finish. Patience is required. Best from 2029 through 2050.