A smoldering flintiness on the nose is astonishing, giving the impression of incredible youthfulness in the first few moments of smelling the wine. Little hints of evolution appear only slowly, with notions of smoky, briny oyster shell and lemon confit. The palate is super-sleek but expands into chalky depths, lemon-scented, with immense saltiness and the finest, tiniest bubbles. Somehow, the initial tautness just relaxes, melts into creaminess in a lasting and somehow deeply satisfying fashion that rings long. Sipped again, the wine’s precision and linearity become ever clearer, plumbing coolest, oceanic, chalky depths. Its sense of youthfulness is mind-boggling.

This is a bright, mineral-driven Sancerre. Fragrant, crystalline white blossom aromas sit atop sliced green apple, white peach skin and quince on the nose. The palate begins with crushed stone which rides a wave of chalky acidity that lifts and refreshes the finish.

This is a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc. Yeasty muddled pear, honey-glazed apple tart and bread dough aromas entice the nose that is dusted with honeysuckle. The layered palate raises orchard fruit that is enriched with crushed stone and dried white blossom that lingers on the finish.

This is a classic Pouilly-Fumé. Gala apple and late-summer field grass fronds tussle in front of an audience of lilac and orange blossom on the nose. A mix of orchard fruit and dried lemon peel fills the palate that is fruity without being indulgent.

This is a well-put-together Sancerre. Golden apple and toasted lemon peel aromas open on the nose that sees a touch of hay and freshly-cut grass. The mouthwatering palate wraps around a core of shattered stone and citrus with a hint of dried mint leaf on the finish.