Creamy and energetic, with peanut brittle and peach cobbler coming as a wonderful surprise. Tantalizingly seductive notes of mandarin orange and chamomile arise, set to the rhythm of rock and brine.

The laser-beam precision of this wine electrifies as seashell and Meyer lemon take a taut turn across the palate. Ethereal at first, it acquires weight from honeyed notes of vanilla pots de crème and chamomile tea before starched linen provides tension. What a contrast between austere and embracing.

The Chablis “Grand Régnard” bottling from Maison Régnard is a blended bottling that includes fruit from several premier crus and grand crus in the cuvée. The 2021 version is excellent, offering up a bright and complex aromatic constellation of green apple, pear, a touch of lemon peel, oyster shell, chalky minerality, a wisp of anise and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, precise and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, a fine foundation of minerality, lovely balance and a long, complex and quite classy finish. This is lovely juice. 2025- 2050.

Maison Régnard’s 2022 Chablis “Montmains” is crafted entirely from hand-harvested parcels of vines, with ninety percent of the cuvée raised in stainless steel tanks and ten percent in older oak casks. The wine’s aromatic constellation is bright and complex, delivering scents of apple, pear, a complex base of chalky soil tones, just a touch of paraffin, white flowers and just a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and still fairly youthful in personality, with good depth of fruit at the core, fine soil signature, a good girdle of acidity and a long, well balanced and still quite primary finish. This is of course already quite approachable, but in reality it is still a young wine and more precision and complexity will certainly develop if the wine is given just another year or two in the cellar to blossom. It is a very good bottle of Montmains in the making, but its best drinking days are still a couple of years down the road. 2025-2050.

All of the grapes used for the Chablis “Saint Pierre” bottling from Maison Régnard are hand harvested, which is a fairly rare occurrence for villages level bottlings in this region, where many examples are still made from machine-harvested grapes. The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and the 2023 version comes in at a svelte 12.5 percent octane in this vintage. The wine’s bouquet is lovely, wafting from the glass in a mix of lemon, pear, chalky soil tones, a touch of beeswax, a nice touch of Chablisienne straw tones and a topnote of citrus blossoms. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and youthfully complex, with a lovely core of fruit, good soil undertow and grip, lovely balance and a long, poised and focused finish. This is a very good example of Chablis AC. 2025-2040+.