This cru bottling comes from the estate’s most privileged and highest position. It is always rich in polyphenols and sees a large percentage of whole bunches and submerged cap maceration. Explicit aromas of sun-baked herbs, liquorice root and cherry bark surge from the glass. On the palate, a core of vanilla-infused blackcurrant compote is lifted by vibrant acidity, and the balanced and integrated structure has a properly girdling effect. Stony tannins clamp down on the finish but there is great mineral and minty length.

Leading off with attractive roasted aromas that suggest toasted hazelnut and grilled chestnuts, the 2021 edition is characterised by mature rather than fresh fruit. Dark currants and a tangle of bitter herbs take the relay. Definitely not fragile, this seems solidly locked into its chewy, vigorous expression. Dry, grainy tannins are a touch austere still, so give it another year. Longtime winemaker Cecilia Leoneschi has made a great impact on the positive evolution at Castiglion del Bosco. She recently announced that she will be leaving the estate.

The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Campo del Drago is intense, with ashen stone, exotic spices, incense and dried flowers. Lifted and graceful, it offers remarkably pretty red and blue fruits with a wave of fresh acidity. A nice contrast of edgy tannins and sour citrus frames the finish as violet inner florals slowly fade.

The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is wildly expressive, mixing exotic florals with peppery herbs, cedar shavings and black cherries. It is soothingly round and silky, with cooling acidity and mineral-inflected wild berry fruits offset by subtle citrus. Staining and long, the 2021 finishes with a subtle chewy concentration and saline depth.

Aromas of cloves, pine needles, bing cherries and dried cranberries create a spicy, warm nose, while the fruit ripens on the palate without losing that snappy freshness. Firm tannins and linear, decisive acid fortify undertones of earth and salt.