The 2023 Côte-Rôtie Seigneur de Maugiron leads with dried violets, assertive black cherry and pencil shavings alongside smoky tones. Sparks of orange blossom add more florality. Medium-bodied, round and juicy, the racy 2023 levels off with a zesty slice of blood orange and plentiful vitality on the refined finale.

The 2021 Barolo Mosconi is another superb wine from Pio Cesare. Dark red fruit, iron, white pepper, incense, tobacco, licorice, dried herbs and rose petal all hit the palate. This brawny Barolo captures all the structural intensity of Mosconi so well. The more classic style Pio Cesare favors these days goes a long way in balancing much of that intense, unbridled power.

The 2021 Barolo Ornato hits the palate with copious dark-toned fruit, gravel, incense, new leather, licorice, graphite and scorched earth. This potent Serralunga Barolo is quite backward, but all the elements are very nicely balanced just the same. It's classic Serralunga all the way.

The 2021 Barbaresco Il Bricco caresses the palate with crushed raspberry, cinnamon, rose petal, cedar, sweet spice and pipe tobacco. Sensual at first, the 2021 is deceptive, as it packs a pretty substantial punch of acidity, tannin and overall structure. I find it absolutely beguiling and wonderfully complex right out of the gate.

The complex 2023 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne opens with pronounced black plum, stone dust, lightly perfumed cedar and tints of violets. Wrapped around fine-grained tannins, the 2023 is a medium-bodied and focused La Landonne, checking out with vivid lift and precision on the lean finish.