This is a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc. Yeasty muddled pear, honey-glazed apple tart and bread dough aromas entice the nose that is dusted with honeysuckle. The layered palate raises orchard fruit that is enriched with crushed stone and dried white blossom that lingers on the finish.

This is a classic Pouilly-Fumé. Gala apple and late-summer field grass fronds tussle in front of an audience of lilac and orange blossom on the nose. A mix of orchard fruit and dried lemon peel fills the palate that is fruity without being indulgent.

This is a well-put-together Sancerre. Golden apple and toasted lemon peel aromas open on the nose that sees a touch of hay and freshly-cut grass. The mouthwatering palate wraps around a core of shattered stone and citrus with a hint of dried mint leaf on the finish.

Marqués de Murrieta’s venture in Rías Baixas was overhauled in 2019 to focus on ageworthy whites. The flagship Pazo Barrantes, which is now aged in tanks and 15% acacia barrels, spends an additional two years in bottle before release. Although prices have risen, the wine has gained depth and complexity, displaying generous white and citrus fruits, fine fennel notes, and consistent juiciness and length.

“The 2014 Cristal Rosé is fascinating to taste next to the 2015 and a few older vintages, as it is decidedly linear and taut, signatures that are typical of the year. Cranberry, chalk, mint, white pepper and blood orange are all finely sculpted. This is an especially fine showing. I imagine the 2014 will flesh out beautifully with time in bottle. It's not an immediate Cristal Rosé, but more of a long distance runner. Readers should be in no rush here. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 2024.”