A mineral-driven version, with an airy, chalky-textured mousse. Deftly integrates hints of smoke and oyster shell with flavors of yellow plum, Gala apple, honeysuckle and salted almond. Refined and persistent on the finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier. Drink now.

Steely and floral nose of white nuts like macadamias, meringue, star fruit and a touch of green pineapple. Round and full-bodied but surprisingly bright and lively, with vibrant acidity providing the backbone. Really long and pure, while there is also suppleness and fleshiness. From the five-hectare Capellania vineyard, where most of the vines are over 100 years old. One of the best viuras out there. Lovely now, but you should seriously consider aging this.

Harmonious, textbook Rioja that shows cedar, spiced strawberries, vanilla and plums. Really polished on the palate, with fresh acidity and a linear, lengthy finish. Very subtle extraction makes this a really balanced, harmonious Rioja that’s appealing now. But the balance will help it age well for the next few years.

The 2016 Cristal is a taut, incisive rendition of this benchmark bottling, unwinding in the glass with youthfully reserved aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, wet stones and subtle hints of sweet, buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and racy, it's almost as electric as the brilliant 2013, with serious concentration, a pure core of fruit, chalky structuring dry extract and a long, intensely mineral finish. Given its tightly wound profile, my advice is to forget it in the cellar for a few years and work on the more open, outgoing 2014 in the meantime.

Made from organic grapes and weighing in at a modest 12 percent stated alcohol, the lithe Domaines Schlumberger 2021 Pinot Noir “Les Princes Abbés” dances on the palate.  Like the head of Janus, it displays both the aromatic red fruitiness and leafy nuances, the hallmark of fine Pinot Noir