Another highlight in Delas’s range, the 2023 Saint-Joseph Sainte-Épine is deeply impressive, revealing aromas of mulberries, cassis, menthol, spices and dark wild berries. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it’s layered and precise, framed by fine-grained tannins and enlivened by a vibrant core of fruit, concluding with a long, precise and ethereal finish. Entirely destemmed and matured in barrels, of which 25% are new, it will require time in the cellar to reach its full potential.

One of the pleasant surprises in the Delas range, the 2023 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos is crafted from the lieu-dit Saint-Georges, on the final terraces before the Rhône, encompassing some six hectares enclosed by walls. It opens with a slightly reductive bouquet that gives way to aromas of cassis, nectarine and blackberry. Medium- to full-bodied, juicy and deep, it offers excellent structure and substance, built around a long, sustained mid-palate framed by finely chiseled, elegant tannins. This is a real success.

Deliciously pure and bright, with a taut, racy beam of damson plum and bitter cherry notes stitched with rose petal and iris details. Shows a twinge of sea breeze through the finish. Drink now through 2033. 1,750 cases made.

Packed with cherry, mulberry and boysenberry paste flavors that show a sappy edge, while roasted apple wood and licorice snap notes coat the finish. Brambly energy skirts underneath, keeping this honest enough. A frankly gutsy style. Best from 2027 through 2032.

This is bright, showing violet and hibiscus notes out front, while slightly high-pitched accents of cherry and pomegranate coulis race along. Opens steadily in the glass, with a finishing kick of fruit on the finish. Drink now through 2031.