Cool vintage. Disgorged in 2022 with a dosage of 8 g/l and then aged further for four years to eliminate the Marmite flavour that can result from Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon’s special bottle-shaking-of-lees technique for Late Release wines, which sounds so labour-intensive but apparently takes only one day. He’s very pro salinity and is against late disgorged wines because the process is too oxidative. Made only in 2002, 2008, 2012, 2015 and 2016 so far. Release date decided purely on taste. Such a contrast with the ‘regular’ Cristal 2018 from a warmer year. This is all grapefruit and tension – even now at 18 years old!

A distinctive white, with lemon meringue pie and tangerine notes, plus touches of kumquat and crunchy star fruit. Herbal and floral accents of lemon blossoms and lemongrass, plus candied citrus peel and mouthwatering acidity, linger on the finish. Drink now through 2038.

Disgorged after 16 years tirage, given a lowish dosage (6 or 7 g/l) and then aged a further eight years in order to encourage Lécaillon’s beloved salinity, plus the caramel or buttery notes resulting from the Maillard reaction. From magnum. Very exciting yet rich with a light, lively mousse. Bursting with life yet a little softer than the white Vinothèque 1995 in magnum served after it. Long and reverberant.

Luxurious and rich yet vibrant, this bubbly offers sumptuous flavors of strawberry and apple that are highlighted by brioche and cinnamon as this lingers on the detailed finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now.

Fragrant and alluring, this sparkler offers detailed pear and strawberry flavors that are laced with yeast roll, roasted nuts and spices, with a long, luxurious finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now.