After 14 years on the lees, the 2008 Champagne Cristal Late Release was disgorged in 2023. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon explained that the idea grew from discovering how an earlier chef de cave had worked with old wines, including the 1945, using poignettage to shake the bottles during their aging. The 2008 underwent a strong poignettage with the Roederer team, an approach Lécaillon plans to use only in selected vintages. How does it differ from the classic 2008? It's got just the right balance and more hedonistic pleasure on opening, for one. Still brilliant and youthful in appearance, it offers a deep and layered nose, with brûléed citrus, fresh lemon curd, white pepper, concentrated citrus, lemon bar, honey, and beeswax. Full-bodied, savory, and deeply chalky, it has excellent length and an integrated, pillowy mousse, with a sesame-like texture and umami character adding complexity. Tasted over several days, it continued to gain focus, silkiness, and clarity, and truth be told, I was expecting it to fall off, but it never did. Drink 2026-2040.

This single-vineyard brut proffers a more floral bouquet—including jasmine and orange blossom—than have the past couple of vintages, but it otherwise sings the same seductive song. It’s yeasty and juicy in equal measure, with tactile notes of Gala apple, quince, and lime leaf punctuated by a cool pop of cherry pit.

Pouring a blush-salmon hue, the 2015 Champagne Cristal Rosé is initially shy on the nose but considerably more expressive on the palate, with fresh apricot, cherry blossom, orange sherbet, white smoke, grapefruit zest, shortbread, fresh ginger, saffron, and mint. Medium-bodied, it is pure and graceful, with a rounded mid-palate, pinpoint mousse, and a long, refined finish. Fabulous today but still youthful, it should improve considerably with another few years in bottle. Drink 2028-2048.

The vinous equivalent of a still life: Picture a warmly lit table laden with apricots, yellow plums, Pink Lady apples, croissants alongside jars of orange marmalade, and smoked almonds scattered across a richly textured cloth (or in this case mouthfeel), and you’ve got the idea of this blend of 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir. Asian pear gives the finish a crisp bite.

The 2018 Champagne Vintage Rosé pours a pale, pure pink-salmon hue and is fresh and appealing, with mint, strawberry, cherry blossom, white grapefruit, and a delicate smoky reduction. Medium to full-bodied, it has a silky texture and refined mousse that bring forward bright salinity and spice. A savory umami character comes through more as a sensation than a distinct flavor, adding another dimension without suggesting oxidation. Drink 2027-2040.