As anticipated, the 2023 Bourgneuf has turned out very well, revealing aromas of dark berries, dark cherries, incense and lilac. Medium- to full-bodied, it is seamless and layered, built around a fleshy core of fruit perfectly framed by velvety, powdery tannins and concluding with a long, perfumed finish. The blend comprises 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc.

A forward, charming wine that retains plenty of the estate's signature, the 2023 Resèrve de la Comtesse bursts with notes of sweet blackberries, cassis, burning embers and anise. Medium- to full-bodied, fleshy and supple, with a soft, giving profile, this will offer a broad drinking window.

A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, matured in 50% new oak, the 2023 Hosanna opens with a pronounced creamy-oak profile, revealing aromas of ripe dark berries, licorice, gentian and spices. Medium- to full-bodied, generous and rich, it is built around a textural core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins that assert themselves in a youthfully firm finish.

This smells divine, lovely lush blackcurrant and black cherry characters on the nose with pencil led, graphite, liquorice and menthol elements - very Pauillac on the nose. Gorgeous weight, supple and agile, great movement and energy to this. Acidity makes this buzzy, tangy and bright but not over the top, this keeps its structure and retains a serious directness from start to finish. Generous licks of minerality adds some cool classicism to it. Sleek and refined, precise and very drinkable. One of a number of brilliant Pauillac wines in 2023. Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau wants it to be racy and it’s certainly racy. 50% grand vin production, 50% second. 3.67pH, 14.7% press wine only Cabernet. Ageing 19 months, 60-65% new oak and then one wine barrels.

This shows aromas of mushroom, sandalwood, cedar and a subtle touch of ash. Medium- to full-bodied, it combines concentration and depth with polished tannins and an expressive core of fruit. It is expressive and broad. This is approachable now, but will benefit from extra time in the bottle. Drink or hold.