“The 2017 Vintage Port Quinta da Ervamoira (in Douro Superior) is another Port from Ramos Pinto in this vintage that is Touriga Nacional-dominated—60% of the blend. The rest is Touriga Franca (15%), Sousão (10%), Tinta Barroca (10%) and Tinto Cão (5%). It comes in with 98 grams of sugar. This is another of those Single Quinta Ports that is not really intended as a downgrade over the regular Vintage Port. Rather, it is just a different expression of terroir—and it is actually pricier than the regular Vintage Port that Ramos Pinto also made in 2017. A defining feature of this elegant Port is always going to be the powerful aromatics, mint, eucalyptus, cistus and so on. It is all about the personality. There isn't a lot of fleshiness. It is not as rich as the regular Vintage Port, but it may have more precision, intensity and focus, as well as more personality. It showed a little more grip on the finish after a couple of days open. In the mid-palate, there is considerable finesse and no jamminess. Then, there's the big finish with some notable grip from tannins. All the while, it is fresh and lifted. A couple of days later, it was drinking pretty well. If it is not quite as rich as the regular Vintage Port, it often seems a brighter and livelier one, as well as a delicious one. This should be approachable fairly young and then hold well for a few decades or more without a problem.”

“Fresh flavors of apricot and golden plum fatten this wine, balancing its notes of wood and brandy. It’s warm, spicy and clean, ready to serve at cellar temperature with sheep’s milk cheeses.”

“Bom Retiro is a historic property on the south side of the Douro River canyon, across the river from Pinhão. It has been owned by Ramos Pinto since 1919 and provides the fruit for this Tawny. The wine’s earthy honey scent suggests its supple textures, while there’s brightness to its orange marmalade flavors, the lasting impression firm, juicy and clean.”

“Fully mature, luscious and fat, this has the dark bitterness of tobacco and espresso to balance its richness. Ignacio Monclus of Brooklyn’s Camperdown Elm suggested it would take the place of a spirit after dinner: “It has the noble wood, classic and on the dry side.”

“Ramos Pinto takes an elegant approach to Vintage Port, investing the wine with energy rather than sheer power. This 2017 is rich in tannins, rounded and chocolatey, yielding high-toned notes of ginger and pear skin over racy, floral plum flavors. It has a dynamic presence, tight, juicy and clean, suited to aging for two decades or more.”