This was the first time I’ve tasted the 2020 Turpino cuvée from Maremma. (The first vintage was 2010.) A blend of Syrah and Cabernet Franc, with a small amount of Merlot from a vineyard four kilometers from the ocean, in the glass it pours a deep purple/magenta color and leads with layered sappy herbs followed by notes of crushed rosemary, lavender oil, blackberries, dark chocolate, and plum. Full-bodied, it saturates the palate with ripe, chalky tannins, even acidity, and a lovely, savory, ripe feel through the finish. It has the most depth and richness of these 2020s but also has fantastic savory notes of scrubby herbs throughout. It’s only going to improve over the next several years. Drink 2027-2050.

Pouring a youthful jeweled ruby color, the 2022 Chianti Classico is entirely Sangiovese from Greve, Lamole, and Radda. (The producers have stopped using fruit from Gaiole in the blend, as they are concentrated on vines closer to home, including the higher elevation site in Lamole for freshness.) The nose is very pretty and fruity, with aromas of mixed berries, crushed flowers, and sweet earth. Medium to full-bodied, it’s elegant on the palate, with a fresh feel, fine tannins, and a refined texture. It is elegant all the way through and is going to offer a lot of pleasure over the next 10-12 years.

This is green-gold and bright, the aroma ripe and generous, with hints of mango and honeysuckle garlanding the citric core, fulsome in deference to a very sunny year. The palate is mealy, creamy, and rich, the combination of élevage in sandstone and predominantly new barrels forging an impressive structure, which will need a little more time to settle. The region has ensured, however, that there is plentiful acidity and a rich, chalky substratum that will underwrite the quality ofthe evolution. 

There’s lots of tension and focus to this version, with the fine, pointillisme-like bead dancing a graceful foxtrot on the palate, carrying tropical hints of passion fruit coulis and blood orange granita along with an overtone of oyster shell and accents of pickled ginger and anise. This is lacy on the finish, with a salty undertow coming to the fore to create a lingering, mouthwatering impression.

The 2021 Rubicon has quite an extrovert bouquet, more so than the 2001; black plum, dark chocolate and light violet scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe tannins, more body and depth here, cohering nicely towards the slightly lactic finish that fans out nicely. Fine. Tasted at the Meerlust tasting at Berry Brothers & Rudd in London.