Beautiful red-plum, sage and brick-dust nose. Refined, ripe but not voluptuous, understated dignity. Very finely knit tannins running parallel with a long, graphite-and-loam, mineral-and-earth backbone. Silky finish.

A sunshine-Stellenbosch Chardonnay to the last sprinkle of cinnamon on ripe banana. Delicious, fresh, sweet fruit. A lovely balance of grapefruit and golden apples, Meyer lemon and nashi pear with buttery lemon cream from the oak. Just the right balance of oak and fruit. Full marks on the gluggable scale!

A blend of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc brought up in a mix of tank and barrel, the 2023 Château Peymouton is a charming, layered, ripe 2023 that displays the style of the vintage. Ripe red and black fruits, spicy herbs, and loamy soil all define the aromatics, and it's medium-bodied, nicely balanced, has sweet tannins, and outstanding length. It already offers pleasure yet will shine for at least 15 years if well stored. Drink 2026-2040.

Deep ruby/plum-hued, the 2023 Clos Saint-Martin has gorgeous aromatics of spicy, darker fruits, chocolate, crushed stone, iron, and graphite. Based on 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged 18 months in 80% new barrels with the balance in amphora, it's rich, concentrated, and medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a pure, graceful, layered mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. From a magical terroir, it's a brilliant, seamless 2023 that readers will love. Buy a case if you can. Drink 2026-2046.

A perfumed, aromatic, and floral Pomerol, the 2023 Château Certan De May is based on 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged 16-20 months in 80% new French oak. Juicy red fruits, leafy underbrush, and spring flowers all emerge from the bouquet, and it's medium-bodied on the palate, with a pure, layered, elegant mouthfeel, fine tannins, and nicely integrated acidity. It's one of the more open, expressive, and complex Pomerol in the vintage, and I'd happily drink a bottle any time over the coming two decades. Drink 2026-2045.