A sunny, fleshy wine, with an attractive mix of yellow plum, warm hay and dried herbs. Lemony freshness cuts through, with a bitter mineral detail driving the satisfying, well-balanced finish. Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Viognier. Drink now.

The 2023 Napanook is composed of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it strides confidently out of the glass with bold notes of black cherries, warm cassis, and tilled soil, giving way to hints of wild sage, graphite, black pepper, and underbrush. Full-bodied, the palate delivers a solid backbone of grainy tannins and plenty of freshness to back up the muscular black fruit layers, finishing long and earthy.

The 2023 Dominus is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Opaque purple-black in color, it slowly unfurls to reveal a powerful core of blackcurrant jelly, ripe black plums, and fresh blueberries, followed by hints of menthol, crushed rocks, dried sage, black truffles, and black olives. The full-bodied palate is both generous and energetic, displaying an impressive array of savory and earthy nuances among the dense black fruit layers and a rock-solid frame of grainy tannins and beautiful tension, finishing with epic length.

The 2016 Champagne Cristal is chalky and pristine, with a crystalline nature and notes of white peach, fresh citrus blossoms, and bright salinity. Tasted for the first time last year, it captures a precise and focused energy that’s unmatched. It boasts the energy and tension of 2002 and the precision of 2008. The wet-stone minerality of fresh chalk texture is profound, opening with medium body, showing pinpoint mousse, and sustaining a weightless energy through the long finish. This is not an obvious wine on opening, but it is by far one of my favorite wines of the year. It is going to require some patience, but it is worth stashing away and should have fantastic longevity. Drink 2027-2050.

The 2018 Champagne Vintage Brut Rosé is based largely on Pinot Noir from Cumières, with additional Pinot Noir from Mareuil sur Aÿ that brings more intensity and drive to balance the upfront fruit of Cumières. Composed of 60 percent Pinot Noir, it offers a chalky, lightly saline profile with notes of apricot, fresh strawberry, and blood orange. Medium-bodied, it has more structure than expected in the vintage and finishes clean and mineral. Drink 2025-2045.