“An initially faint but distinct hint of freshly cut green but ripe apple, of lemon, with subtle florality, a mere touch of freesia, hints at more nuance to come. More time in the glass reveals a sense of still briny oyster shell. The palate is like a summer breeze, caressing the palate with finest, creamiest foam – and again that saltiness that is utterly seductive and appetising. There is immense vertical richness in that creamy but slender texture. Despite the generosity, the creaminess, there is nothing superfluous to obscure the wine’s essential and clear-cut luminosity. This is a model of sleekness, understatement and depth, an utterly compelling combination of briskness and emollience. Irresistible now but guaranteed to evolve. ”

“Cristal Rosé appears to be an effortless wine, a pleasure point somewhere between masculine strength and feminine beauty. The delicate rose color and lasting red fruit describe ripe peach, the scent of bee pollen, savory herbs and smoke, but what astonishes about this wine is the kind of power that pheromones have, well past the edges of perception. A blend of Aÿ pinot noir and Avize chardonnay, all mid-slope parcels, all on chalk soils, this is glorious wine to enjoy now, while it holds the inner tension and bold compression of flavors to develop for decades.”

“This first release of Roederer’s new Collection is based on the 2017 harvest, the 242nd for the house. This wine replaces Brut Premier. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon bases the Collection blend on a “perpetual reserve,” held in stainless steel since 2012, with wine added in each vintage: half pinot noir, half chardonnay, none of it having undergone malolactic conversion. For the 242 blend, he included some oak-aged reserve wines before selecting individual parcel wines from partner growers, focusing on chardonnay, along with some meunier and pinot noir from the Marne Valley. The final blend is 34 percent perpetual reserve, 10 percent oak-aged reserves, and 56 percent from the 2017 harvest. While Brut Premier was a more spherical wine in the mouth, Collection 242 is finer, with greater length of flavor and more energy. The scent is floral and seashell-mineral, the texture caressing, then tense. My notes and the comments from the panel are all about the wine’s harmony and structure, without a word about fruit. It’s an exciting wine to taste and to drink.”

“A pale rosé color of this great Champagne leads to a wine that has toast, spice and layers of citrus and red fruits. Its richness is balanced by freshness that will take several years to fully mature. So, even at eight years, the wine has plenty of room to develop. Drink from 2023.”

“A graceful Champagne, with vivid acidity creating a mouthwatering frame for delicately-meshed flavors of ripe yellow plum and melon, preserved lemon and salty mineral. There's a light, creamy plushness to the mousse, carrying the flavor profile through to the well-cut, lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2029.”