The 2017 Rosé is bright and finely sculpted. Crushed red berries, grapefruit, chalk, mint and white pepper lend palpable energy throughout. This is an especially nervy edition of the Rosé. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy taut, vibrant Champagnes. The blend is 62% Pinot Noir (all from Cumières) and 38% Chardonnay (from Chouilly), with the energy of Cumières very much driving the blend. The Pinot came in on the early side, which was necessary to avoid rot. It is a fine effort in a vintage in which Roederer made just two vintage Champagnes, the Rosé and a Blanc de Blancs. Dosage is 8 grams per liter.

The NV Collection 245 is another stellar Champagne from Roederer. Apricot, white flowers, spice, white pepper and tangerine oil all open in the glass. This is a more open-knit style from Roederer. The blend is 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 24% Meunier based in 2020, but with 35% reserve wines from a perpetual reserve of previous editions and 10% reserve wines in oak, meaning the base vintage is not particularly evident. Dosage is 7 grams per liter, but it feels a bit higher than that.

A mineral-driven version, with an airy, chalky-textured mousse. Deftly integrates hints of smoke and oyster shell with flavors of yellow plum, Gala apple, honeysuckle and salted almond. Refined and persistent on the finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier. Drink now.

The 2016 Cristal is a taut, incisive rendition of this benchmark bottling, unwinding in the glass with youthfully reserved aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, wet stones and subtle hints of sweet, buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and racy, it's almost as electric as the brilliant 2013, with serious concentration, a pure core of fruit, chalky structuring dry extract and a long, intensely mineral finish. Given its tightly wound profile, my advice is to forget it in the cellar for a few years and work on the more open, outgoing 2014 in the meantime.

The 2016 Cristal is a blend of 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay with 7 grams per liter of dosage. No malo-lactic was performed here, and 31% of the base wines were aged in French oak. The nose begins with bright red berry notes of fresh raspberries and strawberries before opening out to a complex undercurrent of saffron, white chocolate, talc, baker’s yeast, and emerging wafts of citron blossom and pear tart. The palate is very dry and spicy, not needing even a touch more sweetness thanks to the abundance of ripe berry and citrus flavors, delivering beautifully knit acidity and typically tiny, persistent bubbles. It finishes with notes of effervescent chalkiness and saffron flowers, leaving you reaching for another sip.