This is green-gold and bright, the aroma ripe and generous, with hints of mango and honeysuckle garlanding the citric core, fulsome in deference to a very sunny year. The palate is mealy, creamy, and rich, the combination of élevage in sandstone and predominantly new barrels forging an impressive structure, which will need a little more time to settle. The region has ensured, however, that there is plentiful acidity and a rich, chalky substratum that will underwrite the quality ofthe evolution. 

The 2021 Rubicon has quite an extrovert bouquet, more so than the 2001; black plum, dark chocolate and light violet scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe tannins, more body and depth here, cohering nicely towards the slightly lactic finish that fans out nicely. Fine. Tasted at the Meerlust tasting at Berry Brothers & Rudd in London.

A pretty, soft, coral color, with hints of onion skin. An initially reticent nose, gradually ceding rosehips and other more delicate red fruits (strawberry, maybe), pepper, and spice in support. A robust, phenolic, youthful palate, rejoicing in a sunny disposition but aware of the need for restraint and recalling its lack of sugar; poised and somewhat statuesque on the finish. Giacometti has been sharing a glimpse of Botero, but ultimately, and with no lack of dignity, he holds court.

Soft-burnished silver with a decorous mousse. The nose recalls mirabelle plums, petrichor, and a hint of verbena, the ripeness of the vintage held in check by steely intent. The palate is juicy, more playful than expected, with notes of clove and Sichuan pepper pleasingly juxtaposed with guava and mandarin, with poached pear and sourdough also detected. A vibrant, sapid finish ensues.

A fresh and pretty example of classic Russian River chardonnay from a cool vintage. Aromas of just-ripe tropical fruit plus a bit of toasty oak and honeysuckle. A full body and rich mouthfeel, with flavors of minerals and sliced green apples. Full-bodied. Drink or hold.