Wonderfully aromatic and lifted. Citrus and energetic. Lots of exuberant fruit but overall brisk and superbly refreshing. 

Not made, like most pink prestige champagnes, by simply adding some still red to the blend for the white version but a very different animal. From six or seven grand cru villages, particularly Aÿ, Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger (‘our Montrachet’, according to Lécaillon), fewer ingredients than the white version. More phenolic ripeness and nicely polymerised tannins. Very, very pale copper colour. And the taste and structure so different from a white Cristal. I’m a sucker for Cristal Rosé. Rich almondy nose. Very broad and very long. Utterly luxurious and flattering.

Cool vintage. Disgorged in 2022 with a dosage of 8 g/l and then aged further for four years to eliminate the Marmite flavour that can result from Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon’s special bottle-shaking-of-lees technique for Late Release wines, which sounds so labour-intensive but apparently takes only one day. He’s very pro salinity and is against late disgorged wines because the process is too oxidative. Made only in 2002, 2008, 2012, 2015 and 2016 so far. Release date decided purely on taste. Such a contrast with the ‘regular’ Cristal 2018 from a warmer year. This is all grapefruit and tension – even now at 18 years old!

A distinctive white, with lemon meringue pie and tangerine notes, plus touches of kumquat and crunchy star fruit. Herbal and floral accents of lemon blossoms and lemongrass, plus candied citrus peel and mouthwatering acidity, linger on the finish. Drink now through 2038.

Disgorged after 16 years tirage, given a lowish dosage (6 or 7 g/l) and then aged a further eight years in order to encourage Lécaillon’s beloved salinity, plus the caramel or buttery notes resulting from the Maillard reaction. From magnum. Very exciting yet rich with a light, lively mousse. Bursting with life yet a little softer than the white Vinothèque 1995 in magnum served after it. Long and reverberant.