Crafted from approximately equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this wine imparts luxury in layers. Aromas of wild strawberry, apricot, and almond biscotti are wreathed in lilac and rose; peach and more strawberry, plump and succulent, come edged with uplifting acidity and a ribbon of lemon rind before a finish subtly shaded by white chocolate and saffron.

Coming largely from Verzy Pinot Noir with 20% Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, the 2018 Champagne Vintage pours a bright pale-yellow hue and takes a fully dry, savory direction. The nose offers wet stone, peach, bitter citrus, salinity, and deep chalky notes. Medium to full-bodied, it has a fleshy sense of freshness while remaining elegant and focused, with a delicate bitterness that dries the palate and carries through the long finish. One-third was fermented in oak, and the wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Drink 2027-2040.

Packed with intensity, the 2018 Champagne Cristal pours a bright straw-yellow hue and is showing excellent clarity today. Bitter citrus, verbena, citronella, spearmint, and a cool menthol character define the wine. Full-bodied but finely detailed, it has a pixelated, bright, salty quality to its structure, with freshness and precision carrying through the finish. The 2018 was marked by unusually low pH and a greater proportion of tartaric than malic acidity, contributing to the wine's energy and definition. Drink 2028-2050.

Entirely Chardonnay from Avize, the 2019 Champagne Blanc De Blancs pours a brilliant, uniform silver-yellow hue, with verbena, jasmine, white pineapple, bitter citrus, salinity, and a delicate halo of flinty reduction. Full-bodied in sensation without carrying weight, it has bright energy and excellent length, with the bitter citrus and salty character lingering on the finish. It was made without malolactic fermentation, with one-third fermented in oak, and bottled at a lower pressure of 4 bars. This should only improve with time. Drink 2028-2045.

Built around the 2022 vintage, the NV Champagne Collection 247 pours a brilliant straw hue and is already showing well. Fresh shortbread, strawberry, sweet red fruit, flowers, fresh bread, and a light touch of reduction emerge from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it is elegant and inviting, with a refined mousse, silky texture, salinity, and a mouthwatering finish. There is a lovely balance between its fruitiness and savory character, and it is drinking well now with plenty of room to develop over the coming decade. Drink 2026-2034.