The nose is both tart and ripe, showing Morello cherry, pomegranate, and rhubarb, framed by heady rose aromatics. The palate has pleasing texture, opening with white pepper, moving through floral tones at the midpalate, and finishes on a lingering light cherry note. A charming choice for charcuterie night

The 2018 Cristal opens a new chapter for Roederer. The Cristal estate is composed of 45 parcels. In better vintages, most of the 45 parcels are used for the blend. The 2018 vintage brought with it elevated ripeness and generally low acids. Longtime Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon was forced to cast his gaze wider, to look for parcels that offered a touch of freshness. Lécaillon expanded his palette to 57 parcels. The result is a Cristal unlike any other I have tasted. Orchard fruit, dried flowers, spice, chalk and herbs. 

Lovely hint of mineral reduction on the nose which shows bright pear and cherry fruit with a hint of spice on the nose. The palate is expansive with layered pear and citrus fruit, a hint of mandarin, and some fine spicy detail. It’s rich but nicely balanced with lots of texture and generosity, and not too much acidity, giving nice breadth on the palate. Lovely stuff.

Fresh and enticing, with a steady beam of plum and black cherry compote flavors, lending this a generous feel. Liberally gilded with violet and ink on the finish and kept grounded with a twinge of iron at the tail end. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2035.

It is telling to compare warm and cool years at the turn of the 2010s, when these wines increasingly reflect both vintage character and a firmly established house style. The 2010 Castillo Ygay (Tempranillo with a dash of Mazuelo) comes from a cool year and shows as such: initially closed and reductive, clearly mid-evolution. With air, it opens onto fine, fresh plum and cassis alongside finely drawn oak, mint, menthol and a touch of lavender. Tertiary notes are beginning to form, including delicate dried flowers, and there is beeswax again in the mix. Taut and slightly compact, it finishes long and tertiary-leaning, anchored by juicy freshness and tannins that still carry energy.