The 2017 Rosé is bright and finely sculpted. Crushed red berries, grapefruit, chalk, mint and white pepper lend palpable energy throughout. This is an especially nervy edition of the Rosé. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy taut, vibrant Champagnes. The blend is 62% Pinot Noir (all from Cumières) and 38% Chardonnay (from Chouilly), with the energy of Cumières very much driving the blend. The Pinot came in on the early side, which was necessary to avoid rot. It is a fine effort in a vintage in which Roederer made just two vintage Champagnes, the Rosé and a Blanc de Blancs. Dosage is 8 grams per liter.

The NV Collection 245 is another stellar Champagne from Roederer. Apricot, white flowers, spice, white pepper and tangerine oil all open in the glass. This is a more open-knit style from Roederer. The blend is 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 24% Meunier based in 2020, but with 35% reserve wines from a perpetual reserve of previous editions and 10% reserve wines in oak, meaning the base vintage is not particularly evident. Dosage is 7 grams per liter, but it feels a bit higher than that.

Earthy and herbaceous, with hints of fruit leaves and a luscious aroma reminiscent of strawberry and red currant jam. Freshly ground spices add depth, including sweet cinnamon and savory thyme. On the palate, encounter a vintage charm with dried cherries, wild herbs, and elegant tannins, evoking the timeless allure of an old-school classic that is delicious now but will refine with age. 

As classic as they come, the wines from il Bricco always shows the passion that Pio Cesare bring to making wine. Aromas of dark cherry jam, plum compote with crushed bay leave and ground spices define the nose. Elegant with a fine line of tannins that runs from the beginning to end that provides a balance bar for the flavors wild berries, black tea and savory spices to perform on, a true high-wire act that is pulled off with near perfections. A gem of a wine. Drink from 2026.

This Barolo from the Ornato vineyard offers enticing aromas of ripe black cherry, cinnamon-spiced cake, candied blood orange zest, and a hint of fresh bay leaf. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced, with a precise, linear structure that showcases flavors of juicy blackberry, dark chocolate, and a touch of vanilla. The wine's impressive length and depth are evident in the long, satisfying finish. Drink 2026-2044.