The 2021 Rubicon has quite an extrovert bouquet, more so than the 2001; black plum, dark chocolate and light violet scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe tannins, more body and depth here, cohering nicely towards the slightly lactic finish that fans out nicely. Fine. Tasted at the Meerlust tasting at Berry Brothers & Rudd in London.

The 2021 Terre Alte slowly opens with an understated blend of white peaches, freshly sliced nectarines, lime zest and mint. It is weightier than expected yet harmonious, with silken depths and masses of citrus-infused orchard fruits and gingery spices swirling throughout. Long and potent, it leaves the senses stained in primary concentration and minerals, tapering off structured and intense. Bury the Terre Alte in the cellar.

Candied orange and confectionery spice mix with dried pineapple as the 2019 Picolit blossoms in the glass. It is noticeably sweet, with oily textures and a salted almond tinge that adds remarkable balance and satisfying seduction. Sour citrus mingles with ginger and a touch of zesty acidity, as the 2019 finishes long yet unexpectedly fresh.

A pretty, soft, coral color, with hints of onion skin. An initially reticent nose, gradually ceding rosehips and other more delicate red fruits (strawberry, maybe), pepper, and spice in support. A robust, phenolic, youthful palate, rejoicing in a sunny disposition but aware of the need for restraint and recalling its lack of sugar; poised and somewhat statuesque on the finish. Giacometti has been sharing a glimpse of Botero, but ultimately, and with no lack of dignity, he holds court.

Soft-burnished silver with a decorous mousse. The nose recalls mirabelle plums, petrichor, and a hint of verbena, the ripeness of the vintage held in check by steely intent. The palate is juicy, more playful than expected, with notes of clove and Sichuan pepper pleasingly juxtaposed with guava and mandarin, with poached pear and sourdough also detected. A vibrant, sapid finish ensues.