The 2020 Barolo Ornato expresses a wonderful floral profile on the nose, with loads of fresh roses, red raspberries, dried strawberries, white pepper, and fennel. It displays a more linear approach compared to the Mosconi (which has broader shoulders and more structure), with fine tannins, snappy acidity, and a bright lift on the finish. It is elegant and a touch nervous at this stage and will benefit from another year in bottle. Drink 2025-2037.

The 2020 Barbaresco Il Bricco pours a youthful ruby hue and is fragrant with fresh violets, black raspberries, crushed stones, and blood orange. Savory and lightly sanguine, the palate offers medium body, fine tannins, a refreshing lift of acidity, and a snappy, mouthwatering finish. It is ripe and inviting without ever feeling heavy and has a light, earthy finish. Drink 2024-2036.

Ripe ruby-colored, the 2020 Barbaresco Pio offers a lovely floral nose with notes of fresh cherries, roses, raspberries, and wet stones. Supple and midweight, it has a refined and stony texture, with fine tannins, a weightless feel, and a gorgeous fresh apricot perfume on the back palate. There’s a lot to love with this wine, and it’s going to have a wide drinking window over the next 10 years.

A youthful ripe ruby color, the 2020 Barolo Pio is fresh and inviting, with perfumed aromas of rose petals, spiced strawberries, and dusty earth. Elegant and juicy, it’s easy-drinking, with fine tannins and juicy freshness within a medium-bodied frame, and it has good length for an entry Barolo. It captures all the graceful elements of this vintage and has a tremendous amount of charm as well as a complete feel. Enjoy it now or over the next 10 years. It would be a great by-the-glass offering if the price is right.

Ornato has been the Pio Cesare estate's cru since 1985. In 2020, the grapes were harvested on 5 October, after the heavy rainfall. Mineral and smoky, with intense violet notes alongside cherry kernel and rhubarb, it's full of graphite flavour and almost zestiness on the palate, supported by tight-knit tannins. Polished and thick on the finish. "Compared to 2019, we used gentler extractions in 2020," explains Federica Boffa, now in charge at Pio Cesare.