A single-vineyard Pinot Noir-driven wine like a Grower Champagne, the 2021 Clark Road Vineyard is defined more by the site’s proximity to the ocean and altitude from the valley floor than its soils, a place where the producer felt they could do something relatively repeatable every year (although it took a decade to find). About 11 miles from the ocean, the grapes hang over an extended growing season taking in the cool air and morning fog. At 77.6% Pinot Noir, 22.4% Chardonnay, and 5.5 grams per liter dosage, the Chardonnay brings a lightness of acidity, a light, ethereal quality met by the Pinot’s crunch of red apple and texture. Moderately rich, it’s medium-bodied and has a creaminess balanced by plenty of acidity, with a bold finish. Disgorged December 2024. Drink now and over the next 10-12 years.

Made even less regularly than the L’Ermitage Brut (the last vintage was 2015), the outstanding 2019 Brut Rose L'Ermitage spent five years on the yeast. It exudes fresh-picked strawberries and summer peach along a seamless, crisp, and lengthy continuum that is complex and layered without ever being heavy. A nearly 50-50 split of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it includes 4.5% reserve red wine, which adds body and color. Soft and undulating in medium-bodied girth on the midpalate, there are hints of fresh herb, rose, and a creaminess to the finish that feels as though it could go on for days. Continue to enjoy through 2039.

Chalky, creamy and fresh, with minerals, fresh pears and wildflowers on the nose. Wonderful richness on the palate, with vibrant, mineral-driven acidity. Dense bubbles and a long finish of delicate herbs, wild honey, lime zest and salt. A mouthwatering, nuanced, medium-body wine. Disgorged March 2025. 5 g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

Pretty, delicate aromas of salt, herbs and pine forest. A compelling wine that really speaks of place, with fine bubbles that coat the palate before resolving in a finish of citrus oil and resinous herbs. Very fresh, layered, vibrant and medium- to full-bodied, with some wonderful chalkiness at the end. 52% chardonnay and 48% pinot noir. Disgorged February 2024. 6 g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

A chardonnay-dominant, fresh and vibrant wine with aromas of sliced pears, wildflowers, citrus blossoms and wet stones. The plate shows fresh acidity, minerality and subtle, pleasing notes of fresh bread. Citrus juice and peel in the finish. Lovely, easygoing and pleasurable. Mainly 2021 vintage. Disgorged July 2024. Good value. Drink or hold.