Restrained green apple, lemon bush and lime, plus light brioche and chalk. Medium to full body with fine, nicely persistent bubbles and good substance on the mid-palate. Almost biting yet polished at the end, with long, refreshing acidity. Lacks a bit of complexity at the moment, but fresh. Best from 2025.

The 2021 Gran Vino Albariño is the third vintage of this new cuvée from their 12 hectares in eight different plots (Cacheiro, Huerta, Besada, Eira, Ferradiña, Ferradura, Tomadiña and Souto) in the Valle del Salnés plus a further hectare rented from the archbishop. The destemmed grapes were pressed and the must let to settle and then fermented in stainless steel for around 30 days. The wine was kept with the lees in stainless steel for six months and then a further six months without the lees. Fifteen percent of the volume matured in acacia wood barrels. It was kept in bottle for around 20 months before being sold. It has 13.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.25 and seven grams of acidity (tartaric). It's pale and elegant, insinuating, perfumed, floral and subtle. It's lighter but very vibrant, and it's fresh and with volume and very tasty flavors. This could be the finest vintage to date—elegant, clean, classical and Atlantic. 105,274 numbered bottles and 1,827 magnums produced. It was bottled in July 2022. The wine is released almost two years after the harvest.

The top-of-the-range 2019 La Comtesse comes from a vineyard called Cacheiro, 1.4 hectares of their oldest vines (planted in 1965) that deliver lower yields and aim to showcase the aging potential of Albariño. The must fermented in 3,000-liter oak vats where the wine was kept for 12 months, the first three with the lees, and then it was kept in concrete for a further 12 months. It has a golden color and an intense nose but with subtle aromas and almost no trace of oak. 2019 was a warmer, very complete and balanced year of powerful wines with concentration, clout and very good balance and freshness. This has 13.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.25 and 7.3 grams of acidity. It has a round and creamy texture and is velvety and tender, sleek and elegant. 9,655 bottles and 400 magnums produced. It was bottled in April 2022.

This is firm and tightly wound, with thick, refined tannins setting the stage for cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco and iron flavors, while dusty, mouthcoating tannins infuse the finish. Patience required for the fruit to emerge. Best from 2029 through 2050.

This rich red features a dense matrix of tannins and lively acidity uplifting its cherry, menthol, mineral and spice flavors. Austere for the vintage now, yet there's good viscosity midpalate and this finishes long and detailed. Best from 2028 through 2050.