The 2023 Hosanna is polished, silky and exceptionally beautiful. Inky dark fruit, cloves, new leather, lavender and chocolate caress the palate. The 2023 is a decidedly restrained Hosanna—more finesse than power. That makes it something of a stylistic departure, and also a Pomerol I find hugely compelling.

The 2023 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is pure class. Vertical, deep and explosive, the 2023 is one of the stars of the vintage. Readers will find a vertical, soaring Pichon Comtesse. The 2023 is one of the most refined wines I can remember tasting here in many years. Lavender, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and mocha are some of the notes that build with some time in the glass. The 2023 is not an especially showy Pichon Comtesse, but rather a wine that needs time to blossom.

The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse is superb. In some recent vintages, I have felt the Réserve was a bit too serious for a second wine. That is not at all the case with the 2023, a wine of sublime elegance and finesse. Floral top notes meld into a core of dark red/purplish fruit, pomegranate, blood orange and cinnamon. This is the Réserve with the highest amount of Cabernet Sauvignon ever.

Black currant, pencil shaving, subtle sandalwood, wet earth, forest floor and violet aromas follow through to a medium- to full-bodied palate with ultra-fine tannins that integrate perfectly at the end. A polished and caressing texture that goes on for minutes. The balance and drinkability of this Dominus is terrific, and it will age beautifully. A blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 9% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. From organically grown grapes. Very drinkable now, but will age beautifully.

The Meerlust 2022 Stellenbosch Estate Red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, spent 16 months in French oak and presents a polished, international profile. Dark fruit, spice and grilled herb are delivered with confident balance on the nose, while the palate reveals a more distinctly South African character through its restrained, silky, mid-weight texture. Stellenbosch’s combination of warm days and cooling maritime airflow supports this contrast between aromatic generosity and controlled structure.