The 2016 Champagne Cristal is chalky and pristine, with a crystalline nature and notes of white peach, fresh citrus blossoms, and bright salinity. Tasted for the first time last year, it captures a precise and focused energy that’s unmatched. It boasts the energy and tension of 2002 and the precision of 2008. The wet-stone minerality of fresh chalk texture is profound, opening with medium body, showing pinpoint mousse, and sustaining a weightless energy through the long finish. This is not an obvious wine on opening, but it is by far one of my favorite wines of the year. It is going to require some patience, but it is worth stashing away and should have fantastic longevity. Drink 2027-2050.

The 2018 Champagne Vintage Brut Rosé is based largely on Pinot Noir from Cumières, with additional Pinot Noir from Mareuil sur Aÿ that brings more intensity and drive to balance the upfront fruit of Cumières. Composed of 60 percent Pinot Noir, it offers a chalky, lightly saline profile with notes of apricot, fresh strawberry, and blood orange. Medium-bodied, it has more structure than expected in the vintage and finishes clean and mineral. Drink 2025-2045.

This pale, elegant rosé has aromas of sliced peaches and melon. It’s silky and fruity with a medium body and a creamy texture. Delicious now.

Muddled black plum, apricot skin and boysenberry aromas frolic on the nose accented by hibiscus and violet blossom. Prominent black fruit on the palate leans against red raspberry on the finish that slightly-grippy tannins enhance. Pair with a bacon cheeseburger, lamb chop and roasted eggplant. 

Muddled yellow apple, white nectarine and crystalline aromas of green pear are dusted with white blossom. The steely palate raises orchard fruit that lingers on the dried, lemon-zested finish. Pair with croque monsieur, twice-fried French fries and tapas.