The 2023 de Pez is packed with ripe blackberry, scorched earth, leather and incense. Powerful and quite broad, the 2023 is a decidedly big, dark wine. Wild Saint-Estèphe acids and tannins are nicely tamed, but the wine's essential brawn is impossible to fully escape. Drink this with a juicy steak.

The 2023 Peymouton is a delicate, open-knit Saint-Émilion to drink now and over the next handful of years. Crushed flowers, kirsch, sweet macerated cherry and tobacco are all laced together in this soft, easygoing Saint-Émilion.

The 2023 Clos Saint-Martin is a delicate, nuanced Saint-Émilion. Silky contours wrap around a core of red cherry fruit, blood orange, pomegranate, spice, mocha and dried flowers. This feels a bit light in body but remains very poised.

The 2023 Lafleur-Gazin is a very pretty, aromatic Pomerol. Crushed flowers, autumn leaves, sweet dried cherry and tobacco are all very nicely lifted. Floral and minty overtones carry the mid-palate and finish. This gracious, mid-weight Pomerol is all charm.

The 2023 Bourgneuf is elegant and finessed, as it always is. Blood orange, pomegranate, sweet spice, mint and rose petal are all finely knit. Aeration brings out the wine's textural richness and resonance. This is beautifully done. Even so, the 2023 can lean into a richer style that I find less attractive than some of the more svelte wines of some prior vintages.