The 2022 Marqués de Murrieta comes from a slightly solar vintage and was aged 25 months in oak. On the nose, intense fruit leads the way, with blackberry, plum and a hint of cassis framed by delicate oak tones of cedar and sandalwood. On the palate, it is dry and marked by lightly gripping tannins, pivoting between juiciness and freshness for the year. Relative to the excellent 2021, it feels more built, with greater aromatic intensity and a slightly firmer structure.

Chalk and ink on the nose. More terse than the 2023; more savoury; blacker, inkier fruit. Elderberry and thyme. Curt tannins, pushing the fruit back behind a stone wall, leaving just-cut-winter-hedgerow stemminess and astringency. But given a bit of time and air, some sweeter, more perfumed notes appear, showing rose hips and hibiscus. I might be tempted to leave this in bottle another year. But definitely decant, and needs careful food pairing – keeps things very simple, avoid spices, sweetness and sauces. Maybe rare roast beef with a side of simple, buttered greens.

Masses of capsicum on the nose. High acidity, taut and tart, competing with the bright redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit. It’s on the lean side, but smart, modern, refreshing.

Beautiful red-plum, sage and brick-dust nose. Refined, ripe but not voluptuous, understated dignity. Very finely knit tannins running parallel with a long, graphite-and-loam, mineral-and-earth backbone. Silky finish.

A sunshine-Stellenbosch Chardonnay to the last sprinkle of cinnamon on ripe banana. Delicious, fresh, sweet fruit. A lovely balance of grapefruit and golden apples, Meyer lemon and nashi pear with buttery lemon cream from the oak. Just the right balance of oak and fruit. Full marks on the gluggable scale!