Even more outstanding than the 2020, the incredibly priced 2021 Reserva is young in boisterous blue fruit, with a generous, full-bodied palate of richness and upfront power. The tannins add length and breadth to the wine, which is tasting great and could go another 10-15 years.

This cru bottling comes from the estate’s most privileged and highest position. It is always rich in polyphenols and sees a large percentage of whole bunches and submerged cap maceration. Explicit aromas of sun-baked herbs, liquorice root and cherry bark surge from the glass. On the palate, a core of vanilla-infused blackcurrant compote is lifted by vibrant acidity, and the balanced and integrated structure has a properly girdling effect. Stony tannins clamp down on the finish but there is great mineral and minty length.

Leading off with attractive roasted aromas that suggest toasted hazelnut and grilled chestnuts, the 2021 edition is characterised by mature rather than fresh fruit. Dark currants and a tangle of bitter herbs take the relay. Definitely not fragile, this seems solidly locked into its chewy, vigorous expression. Dry, grainy tannins are a touch austere still, so give it another year. Longtime winemaker Cecilia Leoneschi has made a great impact on the positive evolution at Castiglion del Bosco. She recently announced that she will be leaving the estate.

The 2004 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque (magnum) is another stellar wine in this series of releases from Roederer. Exotic spice, blood orange, red-toned fruit and dried flowers all grace the palate. As good as the 2004 is, I find the aromatics not totally in place at this stage. This may need more time. Today I prefer the Blanc Vinothèque to the Rosé. Perhaps the high yields of the vintage were easier to address in the blending of Cristal than they were for the Rosé. I hope to have a chance to taste this again. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: June 2019.

Bramble and licorice snap notes lend good energy as a mix of boysenberry and blackberry puree and warmed fruitcake emerges steadily. A singed apple wood detail frames the finish, while underlying succulence lends freshness to help everything extend nicely. Best from 2038 through 2050.