Aromas of lead pencil, sliced green strawberry and raspberry with spices. Full body with a freshness and fine tannins. It’s a little hot but there’s an energy at the end. Very contrasty. Makes you think. Drink or hold.

Aromas of golden apples, yellow pears, honeysuckle, cheese rind, almonds and salted caramel. Seashells, too. Medium-bodied with vivid acidity. Good vibrancy with a delightful tangy finish. Drink or hold.

Darrin Low blends this organically farmed fruit from two estate vineyards—Walraven in the hills above Boonville (61 percent) and Dach, surrounding the winery in Philo (39 percent). The wine ferments without added yeasts in barrels (10 percent new), then ages in them for 10 months, where the flavors concentrate into an earthy, airy, long and graceful chardonnay at 12.5 percent alcohol. The fruit has a range of citrus notes, from orange zest to lime pith and light, dusty tannins carrying notes of lemon meringue, giving a sweet and savory end. Pour it with roasted wild mushrooms, like chicken of the woods.

The 2020 Chardonnay Estate is a very pretty, airy wine. Hints of lemon peel, white flowers, tangerine oil and spice are some of the notes that grace this soft, weightless Chardonnay. All the elements are very nicely balanced.

The 2019 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard is a very pretty, fragrant wine redolent of crushed red berry fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and orange peel. I admire its energy, class and transparent expression of Anderson Valley. This airy, weightless Pinot is a total charmer.