Aromas of golden apples, yellow pears, honeysuckle, cheese rind, almonds and salted caramel. Seashells, too. Medium-bodied with vivid acidity. Good vibrancy with a delightful tangy finish. Drink or hold.

Darrin Low blends this organically farmed fruit from two estate vineyards—Walraven in the hills above Boonville (61 percent) and Dach, surrounding the winery in Philo (39 percent). The wine ferments without added yeasts in barrels (10 percent new), then ages in them for 10 months, where the flavors concentrate into an earthy, airy, long and graceful chardonnay at 12.5 percent alcohol. The fruit has a range of citrus notes, from orange zest to lime pith and light, dusty tannins carrying notes of lemon meringue, giving a sweet and savory end. Pour it with roasted wild mushrooms, like chicken of the woods.

The 2020 Chardonnay Estate is a very pretty, airy wine. Hints of lemon peel, white flowers, tangerine oil and spice are some of the notes that grace this soft, weightless Chardonnay. All the elements are very nicely balanced.

The 2019 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard is a very pretty, fragrant wine redolent of crushed red berry fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and orange peel. I admire its energy, class and transparent expression of Anderson Valley. This airy, weightless Pinot is a total charmer.

A textural Chardonnay with crystalline purity and plenty of tension to balance out the rich fruit flavours. Wet river stones, a saline brightness, white flowers and springtime herbs are interlaced with apricot, white peach, and lemon oil on this medium-bodied, expressive Chardonnay. Organically farmed grapes are hand-picked at night from three estate-grown and organic vineyards in Anderson Valley, near the towns of Boonville, Philo and Navarro along the Navarro River. Whole-cluster pressed, the grapes were allowed to fully oxidise before racking to barrel off the gross lees. Entirely barrel-fermented and aged 10 months in oak, of which just four percent is new.