Lovely freshness and purity of fruit, with chiselled plum, cherry and blackberry flavours. The tannins are muscular yet juicy with an elegant spicy lining (white pepper, cardamon, nutmeg). Long velvety finish, with a tail of smoky dark chocolate and fried sage. A vibrant 2012 still with plenty of time ahead in bottle. Sourced from the highest vineyard on the Ygay estate, La Plana, in the south of Rioja Alta, 40ha at 485m, planted in 1950. 81% Tempranillo and 19% Mazuelo were destemmed, fermented separately in stainless steel tanks then aged separately, each for 34 months in 225L French oak barrels, the Tempranillo in American and the Mazuelo in French. After blending, the wine rested for 20 months in a concrete tank until bottling in May 2019.

The 2022 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) is a classic wine for the appellation and a terrific introduction to the vineyard-designates in this range. Succulent dark cherry/plum fruit, mocha, new leather, cedar, cola and a kiss of French oak are all dialed up. Soft, creamy tannins wrap it all together in style.

A darker expression than many of its peers, this red evokes black cherry, blackberry, truffle, autumn woods and menthol flavors, plus hints of spices. Reminiscent of a Burgundy with a few years age. Shows fine balance and length. Best from 2028 through 2045.

The 2022 Pinot Noir Richaven is super-impressive. Rich, sumptuous and explosive, the 2022 is the most overt wine in this range. It's a style that works so well in exalting the natural exuberance of the Russian River. Dark fruit, mocha, licorice, incense and mocha all build into the dense, palate-staining finish. There's not much subtlety there, but that does not seem to be the goal, nor does it matter, to be honest.

The 2022 Pinot Noir Meredith Estate is a great example of what the Russian River does so well. Dark red/purplish fruit, leather, mocha, incense, licorice and espresso stain the palate. This potent yet expressive Pinot has a ton to offer, but I would give it a year or two in bottle. Today, the first impression is one of brooding power.