Pouring forth from a precious 375-milliliter bottle, the Livio Felluga 2017 Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit faithfully offers musty aromas with dried flower, underbrush and peat moss. Aged in small oak barrels, this pretty dessert wine also shows sweet apricot, fragrant apple and a sweet floral note of hibiscus. You also get a hint of petrol or petroleum jelly. This is a very elegant dessert wine with moderate sweetness and terrific aromatic complexity.

Traditionally a blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Picolit, the oak-aged Livio Felluga 2021 Friuli Colli Orientali Illivio shows an open-knit character with a sticky side that points to maple or pine sap. The aromatic base of this mid-weight white is built upon stone fruit, spicy pear, crushed stone, oregano and crushed sesame seed. It's an offbeat bouquet for sure, but it works.

It has been two years since I last drank a bottle of Livio Felluga’s “reserve” bottling of Friulano, called Sigar. The wine is made from some of the oldest Friulano vines on the estate, with many dating back to 1963. As I mentioned back in 2022, this bottling undergoes its malolactic fermentation in terracotta amphorae and is aged in the same vessels prior to bottling. The 2019 Sigar is aging beautifully and today offers up a superb bouquet of apple, pear, toasted hazelnuts, a touch of green olive, orange peel, still a lovely base of salty soil tones and that same gentle botanical topnote that recalls the Herrenberg vineyard from Maximin Grünhaus. On the palate the wine is still bright, deep and full-bodied, with a superb core of fruit, fine soil inflection, zesty acids and lovely balance on the long, complex finish that closes with a lovely savory streak. Fine juice. 2024-2029.

A graceful, layered white, fresh and salty on the palate, this offers finely meshed flavors of persimmon, Marcona almond and poached apricot, with delicate notes of lemon thyme and orange peel. Medium-bodied, this expands on the palate and lingers, revealing more salinity on the finish. Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Picolit. Drink now through 2031.

Tasted blind. Mid straw. Nose is like a serious Sancerre – or Pur Sang. Very concentrated – like essence of Sauvignon. Massive extract and impact on the green-noted palate. A wine that commands attention! Not for aperitif sipping! There’s some apparent sweetness there though it’s certainly a dry wine. Just the right side of brutal!