Pouring a jeweled red color, the 2021 Barbaresco Il Bricco in Treiso has a more compact aromatic feel with good intensity, opening to notes of dried cranberries, menthol, anise, and fresh redcurrants. The palate is actually more approachable and has lovely balance with its fruit, matching the underlying structure to have a long and even balanced feel throughout. The palate is medium-bodied, with ripe tannins, a balance feel, ripe acidity, and good length through the finish. Drink 2025-2040.

A jeweled red color, the 2021 Barolo Ornato has an attractive fragrance of incense, ripe cherries, candied orange peel, minty herbs, sappy earth, and crushed violets. Medium to full-bodied, it offers a good deal of structure, with noble Serralunga tannins, as well as a balanced feel and a long, mouthwatering finish. I am coming to find that I really love this wine from Pio Cesare. Drink 2027-2050.

Also a jeweled ruby red color, the 2021 Barolo Mosconi shows off layered notes of clove, dried cherries, lavender, dark stones, and rosemary. Medium to full-bodied, it’s savory on the palate, with a sanguine iron mineral feel, a noble-feeling structure, and a persistent finish. Drink 2026-2046.

Though elegant, this red reveals density and intensity, along with focused flavors of tart cherry, blackberry, mineral and spices. Still a bit compact on the finish, yet the fruit pushes through. Drink now through 2030.

Cesare Benvenuto of Pio Cesare tells me that what he loves most about the 2020 vintage is that it is, in his word: contemporary. "You can drink the wines immediately, the tannins are silky and hydrated and Nebbiolo shows a lovely quality of fruit," he says. The 2020 Barbaresco is a blend from four family-owned parcels in Treiso (Il Bricco, San Stefanetto and Bongiovanni) and Alba (Rocche di Massalupo), but 70% of the fruit is from Il Bricco, specifically from the higher part of the vineyard that extends over 400 meters in elevation. Fermentation is in stainless steel with gentle cap management and one month on the skins. The wine ages in oak for 30 months, with 90% of it going into botti, and 10% going into neutral barrique. Starting with the 2022 vintage, Austrian oak was introduced. This is a pretty wine with bright fruit, animating acidity and a silky finish.