The most powerful of the bunch is the Pio Cesare 2020 Barolo Ornato. This is a structured wine with firm tannins and dense fruit that falls on the darker side of the spectrum with blackberry and damson plum. You also get that typical Serralunga d'Alba imprint of rusty mineral and dark licorice. The wine is quite ample in terms of volume and depth, and iy's definitely reflective of its territory of origin. Production is 12,325 bottles, and larger formats were also made.

This wine represents a blend of Nebbiolo from Serralunga d’Alba (Ornato, La Serra and Briccolina), Grinzane Cavour (Gustava and Garretti), La Morra (Roncaglie), Novello (Ravera) and, more recently, Monforte d'Alba (Mosconi). The Pio Cesare 2020 Barolo has an approachable style for sure, with classic Nebbiolo tones of berry fruit, orange peel and licorice. It reveals an integrated and silky personality and tannins that feel very inviting for near and medium-term drinking. This is an ample release of 70,000 bottles.

This wine celebrates its 30th anniversary (1990–2020). With fruit from 40-year-old vines, the Pio Cesare 2020 Barbaresco Il Bricco is a production of 6,930 bottles plus magnums. This vintage reveals elegant aromas and nicely concentrated fruit that is embroidered with spice, dark plum and hints of nutmeg. Fruit from both sides of the Il Bricco vineyard are used. The vineyard tops out at 410 meters above sea level, and this land was purchased in 1972.

With fruit from Montforte d'Alba, the Pio Cesare 2020 Barolo Mosconi was first produced in 2015. Although the winery team has more than five years of experience with Mosconi, Cesare Benvenuto tells me that there was a steep learning curve with this wine. Mosconi is 300 meters removed from Ornato; however, the results are quite different, especially in terms of the mouthfeel. Mosconi shows silky or velvety tannins, and Ornato is more structured. This wine is lifted in terms of aromas, with bright raspberry and blue flowers. It reveals an open but translucent quality that gives this Barolo an especially elegant and undertone personality. Production is 6,900 bottles.

The estate’s flagship MGA, Ornato has been produced since 1985, selected from the central part of the amphitheatre. Over the years, I have found the pronounced wood imprint has diminished, however it has not lost the robust, muscular signature of this site. The 2021 is classically austere and will require time to reveal its complexities. For now, it hints at iron, tar, scorched earth and cedar wood. Full but tight and absorbed in its rigid tannins, what gives this promise is the juicy acidity, the occasional flicker of fresh rose, and the overall polished texture.