These bubbles could be the house staple, offering tiny bubbles and aromas of Fuji apple, baked Bosc pear, cinnamon toast, and caramelized orange zest. These cascade into flavors of brown-butter brioche, Meyer lemon cream, and supple acidity.

On the nose, this bottling offers aromas of makrut lime, orange zest, green apple, and brioche. It has a creamy mousse in the midpalate, with tiny bubbles. Flavors of Golden Delicious apple, white nectarine, and white grapefruit cascade into lime crema and a dry finish.

An otherworldly wine, the 2018 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne is unbelievably good in its heady youth. It is nearly the same combination of Pinot Noir (57%) and Chardonnay (43%) as the 2016 edition. This vintage was also given 7G/L dosage as was the ’16 and it expanded to 57 parcels. It comes off fat and round on the mouth. Candied ginger, kumquat zest, cardamom dusted sourdough bread and shades of white peach all seamlessly combine on the palate, with plenty of salty/stony minerals. The underlying diatom character here is outstanding. While full-bodied and voluptuous, the underlying tension is thrilling. This is a lush and generous Champagne that will surely live on for two decades to come. Drink 2026-2046.

Quite rich initially but composed and complete with great crackling energy and a crisp, layered finish.

Rosy pale amber colour with some definite evolution. Very pungent nose and notably less rich than the Cristal Rosé 2015 served just beforehand. Positively savoury, dense and distinctive, presumably the result of Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon’s special bottle-shaking technique of ‘bâtonnage in the bottle’ for these Late Release wines.