An otherworldly wine, the 2018 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne is unbelievably good in its heady youth. It is nearly the same combination of Pinot Noir (57%) and Chardonnay (43%) as the 2016 edition. This vintage was also given 7G/L dosage as was the ’16 and it expanded to 57 parcels. It comes off fat and round on the mouth. Candied ginger, kumquat zest, cardamom dusted sourdough bread and shades of white peach all seamlessly combine on the palate, with plenty of salty/stony minerals. The underlying diatom character here is outstanding. While full-bodied and voluptuous, the underlying tension is thrilling. This is a lush and generous Champagne that will surely live on for two decades to come. Drink 2026-2046.

Quite rich initially but composed and complete with great crackling energy and a crisp, layered finish.

Rosy pale amber colour with some definite evolution. Very pungent nose and notably less rich than the Cristal Rosé 2015 served just beforehand. Positively savoury, dense and distinctive, presumably the result of Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon’s special bottle-shaking technique of ‘bâtonnage in the bottle’ for these Late Release wines. 

The first commercialised Vinothèque (bottling experiments in 1990 and 1993). A great Chardonnay year. From magnum. Bright greenish gold. SO youthful on the nose! On the palate there’s an extraordinary combination of honeyed richness and energetic leafiness. Very complex and still amazingly youthful for a 31-year-old wine. Long and tingly – such tension again, the overriding Cristal characteristic.

Wonderfully aromatic and lifted. Citrus and energetic. Lots of exuberant fruit but overall brisk and superbly refreshing.