The 2004 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque (magnum) is another stellar wine in this series of releases from Roederer. Exotic spice, blood orange, red-toned fruit and dried flowers all grace the palate. As good as the 2004 is, I find the aromatics not totally in place at this stage. This may need more time. Today I prefer the Blanc Vinothèque to the Rosé. Perhaps the high yields of the vintage were easier to address in the blending of Cristal than they were for the Rosé. I hope to have a chance to taste this again. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: June 2019.

This is green-gold and bright, the aroma ripe and generous, with hints of mango and honeysuckle garlanding the citric core, fulsome in deference to a very sunny year. The palate is mealy, creamy, and rich, the combination of élevage in sandstone and predominantly new barrels forging an impressive structure, which will need a little more time to settle. The region has ensured, however, that there is plentiful acidity and a rich, chalky substratum that will underwrite the quality ofthe evolution. 

There’s lots of tension and focus to this version, with the fine, pointillisme-like bead dancing a graceful foxtrot on the palate, carrying tropical hints of passion fruit coulis and blood orange granita along with an overtone of oyster shell and accents of pickled ginger and anise. This is lacy on the finish, with a salty undertow coming to the fore to create a lingering, mouthwatering impression.

A pretty, soft, coral color, with hints of onion skin. An initially reticent nose, gradually ceding rosehips and other more delicate red fruits (strawberry, maybe), pepper, and spice in support. A robust, phenolic, youthful palate, rejoicing in a sunny disposition but aware of the need for restraint and recalling its lack of sugar; poised and somewhat statuesque on the finish. Giacometti has been sharing a glimpse of Botero, but ultimately, and with no lack of dignity, he holds court.

Soft-burnished silver with a decorous mousse. The nose recalls mirabelle plums, petrichor, and a hint of verbena, the ripeness of the vintage held in check by steely intent. The palate is juicy, more playful than expected, with notes of clove and Sichuan pepper pleasingly juxtaposed with guava and mandarin, with poached pear and sourdough also detected. A vibrant, sapid finish ensues.