Cristal 2016 represents a return to purity and classicism for this cuvée, even seen through the lens of 2016's ripe, generous opening. It is characteristically discreet in youth, cloaking its ripeness in long, chalky, stony energy. Gentle mandarin, pale apricot and raspberry fruit sit under slowly maturing notions of floral honey and tight, smoky charm. There's an airy, flowing delicacy and persistence which lifts this cuvée above some other expressions of this year. It's a hugely promising Cristal, likely to stand as tall as the sought-after 2012 and 2013 releases.

There's a succulent quality to the nectarine, white cherry and melon fruit flavors on display in this elegant rosé, though a firm spine of well-meshed acidity provides fine definition. Plush and creamy in texture, with a minerally underpinning of chalk and smoke, backed by pleasing hints of pink grapefruit pith, pickled ginger and toast that linger on the finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2034.

A seamless Champagne, deftly knitting flavors of crushed black raspberry, tangerine peel, chalk and Marcona almond with the fine china–like acidity and satiny mousse. The graceful balance gives this an effortless feel, but there's intensity and drive to this well-tailored version. Long and fragrant on the finish, with hints of ground ginger, blood orange zest and mineral. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2040.

This leads with pronounced minerality on the nose, but then a bright burst of tangerine, blood orange and Meyer lemon flavors on the palate hold sway, joined by rich hints of crème de cassis, toast point, pastry cream and crystallized honey. Showing beautiful integration and a refined, lacy mousse, this is compact and statuesque, with a sense of restraint and the hint of more to come, while at the same time offering lovely expression in the glass today. Fresh and focused on the persistent finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2044.

The 2016 Cristal is bright, aromatic and nicely lifted. Citrus peel white flowers, mint and a touch of chamomile all grace this understated, wonderfully refined edition of Cristal. Light on its feet and super-refined, the 2016 is exquisite in its understated beauty. I can’t wait to see how the 2016 ages and won’t be surprised it gains a bit of weight in bottle, as Cristal so often does. The blend is 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, so a touch more Chardonnay than the norm. Of the 45 parcels that make up the Cristal domaine, just 32 were used for the blend. Verzy and Verzenay dominate the Pinots, then Aÿ. Avize takes the lead in the Chardonnays, followed by Mesnil and Cramant. Dosage is 7 grams per liter.