Pleasing hints of pastry, lemon curd and chopped hazelnut enrich a juicy core of ripe white peach and apricot fruit in this focused blanc de blanc with a creamy mousse. Backed by vibrant acidity, it shows good length and expression through the lightly salty finish. Drink now through 2032.

Pale rose pink with a little salmon tint. Sumptuous, broad nose. And a richer, prettier palate than the white version. Pleasing already.

Smells positively rich! Though it’s notably dry, even drying, on the palate. Quite smoky and reduced and slightly hard work for the moment though it should mellow with time in bottle.

Very subtle rosé hue, almost a brut non-rosé in colour. Leafy, soft and silky on the palate. Raspberry/strawberry cut with lemon acidity and a mineral streak. A fine vintage rosé.

Very, very concentrated and dense with some salinity and really juicy. 'We call it the Chevalier-Montrachet of Champagne because it's discreet rather than showy', according to Lécaillon. Markedly savoury, and indeed not entirely unlike modern, slightly austere white burgundy. Definite chewiness on the end and a bottle that should ideally be kept awhile. But, presumably thanks to warmer summers and organically grown vines, it's more open than Cristal used to be on release.