Pouring a golden hue, the 2004 Champagne Cristal Vinotheque pushes forward umami elements without going to oxidation. Ripe and pure, it has notes of preserved apricot, nutty pastry, golden citrus, and chalky earth. To let it come back, the mineral has the concentration, but the mineral is what holds it all together. Full-bodied, it’s mature but with a note of oily citrus and a decadently textured finish. It's an effortless, mature, hedonistic expression, generous, open, and ready to enjoy now. Disgorged in 2019 and rested in the cellar until now. Drink 2025-2045.

The NV Champagne Collection 246 is fantastic and has refreshing nerve, with more citrus, pure lemon curd, white grapefruit, and white peach. Medium-bodied, it floats through the palate, with a refined mousse and fantastic fresh acidity.

The 2018 Champagne Starck Brut Nature Rosé pours a pale salmon color, and coming from this early-ripening vintage, it’s very fruity upfront, with ripe red berries, orange, grapefruit, and refreshing spice. Twenty percent of the blend includes cold-soaked Pinot Noir, and the result is a gorgeous, medium-bodied wine with more richness in its texture; the Pinot adds another dimension, and the mousse is more integrated into the wine. It has a more approachable nature than the Blanc edition of the Starck and is going to drink well now or over the coming 10-15 years.

The 2018 Champagne Starck Brut Nature exhibits notes of lemon and citrus oils, but the stone fruit has a silkiness, not the tannic side you sometimes see. It also has hints of savory toast, but it remains very elegant. This 2018 is the first vintage that included a small amount of Pinot Blanc to add more depth to the mid-palate. Medium to full-bodied, it has a fleshy texture without being too bitter. With the extended time on lees, the Pinot Blanc is almost more perceptible in the blend – and if it isn’t now, it will be – because it complements the style with that ideal, almost aesthetic almond or fresh hazelnut character. It brings an oily, not overly fleshy quality, and none of the oxidative side you sometimes get from Pinot Blanc. Disgorged in October 2024, the second batch is scheduled for disgorgement this coming October for release next year

Coming from Verzy and Chouilly, the 2018 Champagne Vintage Brut has 80% Pinot Noir from Verzy and is the last vintage to include Chardonnay from Chouilly. Historically, the Chardonnay was included in the blend to soften the austerity of the Pinot Noir; however, with these recent vintages and warming conditions, this is no longer necessary, as the Pinot Noir is fully ripe and appealing on its own. In the glass, it offers aromas of pure red cherries, fresh flowers, bright spice, and wild raspberries. Medium to full-bodied, it has compact definition, a pillowy mousse, a chalky texture, and mouthwatering tangerine notes on the finish. While I am eagerly anticipating the 2019 release, this holds a fantastic place in the range to enjoy now or over the next 15 or so years.