Not made, like most pink prestige champagnes, by simply adding some still red to the blend for the white version but a very different animal. From six or seven grand cru villages, particularly Aÿ, Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger (‘our Montrachet’, according to Lécaillon), fewer ingredients than the white version. More phenolic ripeness and nicely polymerised tannins. Very, very pale copper colour. And the taste and structure so different from a white Cristal. I’m a sucker for Cristal Rosé. Rich almondy nose. Very broad and very long. Utterly luxurious and flattering.

Cool vintage. Disgorged in 2022 with a dosage of 8 g/l and then aged further for four years to eliminate the Marmite flavour that can result from Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon’s special bottle-shaking-of-lees technique for Late Release wines, which sounds so labour-intensive but apparently takes only one day. He’s very pro salinity and is against late disgorged wines because the process is too oxidative. Made only in 2002, 2008, 2012, 2015 and 2016 so far. Release date decided purely on taste. Such a contrast with the ‘regular’ Cristal 2018 from a warmer year. This is all grapefruit and tension – even now at 18 years old!

Disgorged after 16 years tirage, given a lowish dosage (6 or 7 g/l) and then aged a further eight years in order to encourage Lécaillon’s beloved salinity, plus the caramel or buttery notes resulting from the Maillard reaction. From magnum. Very exciting yet rich with a light, lively mousse. Bursting with life yet a little softer than the white Vinothèque 1995 in magnum served after it. Long and reverberant.

A well-tailored Champagne, with density, length and a firm spine of vivid acidity. Though this is firmly structured, there’s a sense of finesse. The crisp, delicate mousse is a swathe of lacy texture enmeshing the fine frame as this carries flavors of black currant, lemon curd, chalky mineral and biscuit. The finish is long and fragrant, echoing fruit, toast, mineral and spices. Harmonious and enjoyable today, but this will cellar nicely -- potentially longer than some of its peers from the vintage Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2048.

Though minerally on the nose, this bursts with fruit flavors on the palate, offering a panoply of pineapple, passion fruit, pear and coconut notes, with accents of toast point, pastry cream and grated ginger. Creamy and finely meshed, this shows good tension and drive, with racy acidity providing a sleek, sculpted form. Mouthwatering and well-spiced on the finish. Drink now through 2040.