A bright yellow reflective color, the 2017 Champagne Blanc De Blancs is aromatic and pretty on the nose although just a little shy at this stage, offering notes of lemon meringue and hazelnut. The wine has a Burgundian texture and breadth to it, with a highly refined feel of elegance, a supple, rounded mouthfeel, a fluffy mousse, and a long finish. It has a hint of warmth, but it’s very well-managed and balanced. It’s pure all the way through, with a persistent chalky, underlying mineral texture.

The 2014 Champagne Cristal Rosé is much more open and generous, with brothy and briny elements like an ocean breeze. Coming from two plots of Chardonnay and two plots of Pinot Noir, it has a very natural and ripe, floral perfume of peach and peony. On the palate, there’s an energy and electricity to this wine that could be called the golden point of high-toned energy. With wonderful persistence and a delicate spice as well as notes of peachy fruit, oyster shell, and brine, it’s long on the finish and refined throughout. There’s a light spice to the mousse that accents things well and a cologne of more woodsy spice that draws inward. The finish has a bit of mouthwatering tension and coiled energy that’s going to take time to unfurl, so hold this another few years and drink it over the following 30.

This has wonderfully pure fruit aromas, such as peaches, Asian pears and golden apples, alongside lemon curd, gingerbread, chalk and jasmine. Rock salt and oyster shells follow on the palate, which is so seamless that you scarcely notice the super-fine bubbles. It’s concentrated yet gentle at the same time, with impressive resolution and integration of all components. Salty and creamy at the very-long finish. Fantastic! 58% pinot noir and 42% chardonnay. Drink or hold.

Croissants, sliced pears, apples, white flowers and almonds on the nose of this creamy and elegant blanc de blancs. Very silky on the palate, with almost imperceptible bubbles and delicate pastry notes. Soft and beautifully balanced. Chardonnay from the Grand Cru village of Avize. Drink now or hold.

This iconic Champagne, first made in the 19th century for the Tsar of Russia, shows its typical stunning balance and poise between richness and concentration. It has a pure white fruit and honeysuckle aroma and tight, tangy fresh fruit flavors. Just ready to drink, the wine will age well, for at least 20 years. Organic.